Kendall Mix has a long pedigree in winemaking. He has been making Lawrelin wines since 2000, which began as a modest side project back when he worked at Chateau Ste. Michelle. His career led him to Goose Ridge Winery, then later to Milbrandt Vineyards and Wahluke Wine Co., where he is head winemaker today. One significant aspect that distinguishes Lawrelin from any other winery on the horizon is the extent to which the wines have been aged—remarkably, the bottles are cellared 12 to 15 years prior to release.
Kendall and his wife Debbie, both natives of Canada, had filed naturalization forms on their way to becoming U.S. citizens in 2000 but in the aftermath of 9-11, the process ballooned to seven and a half years. After several more delays it took a full 12 years before they would be able to release their first bottle under Lawrelin Wine Cellars, thus the reason they have well over a decade’s worth of vintages in cellar storage.
Very much a micro-winery, Lawrelin’s production hovers in the range of 300 or so cases per year. For many years, the focus was solely on Kendall’s two favorite red varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, although he began to slowly branch out a few years ago.
At the new tasting room in the heart of downtown Walla Walla, guests are treated to a three-vintage vertical tasting flight of Syrah, and a three-vintage vertical of Cabernet Sauvignon. “Our wines are older and have extensive bottle-aging, and truly demonstrate how well Washington wines can age gracefully,” says the amiable Kendall.
A trip to Lawrelin Wine Cellars offers a truly unique opportunity to taste beautiful library wines from a true master of his craft. But hurry, these small-lot, aged reds won’t be around forever, especially now that the tasting room is open and the word is out.
Visit and Taste: The tasting room is at 14 N 2nd Ave, Walla Walla. Phone (509) 572-8402 or visit the website at www.lawrelin.com.
Below are four current releases we recently reviewed:
Lawrelin Wine Cellars 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
93 pts.
This 2004 vintage is beautifully aged and still shows remarkable freshness, streaming with rich blackberry preserves, plum and red currant layered with graphite and barrel spice. There’s excellent tension between the fruit and structure, framed by sweet tannins that extend the finish. $60
Lawrelin Wine Cellars 2004 Syrah
93 pts.
Robust and still youthful after 17 years, offering deeply concentrated blueberry and blackberry with prominent spice notes that adhere to fine tannins, followed by accents of toffee and pencil shavings. Warmed cocoa and plum notes glide through the polished, spiced finish with an earthy touch. $50
Lawrelin Wine Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
92 pts.
Dark, deep and richly concentrated, this red wine is loaded with steeped black cherry and cassis flavors studded with roasted coffee, tobacco leaf, dried cranberry and cola details that weave through the supple texture. Brooding and powerful, with lingering barrel spice on the long finish. $65
Lawrelin Wine Cellars 2005 Syrah
92 pts.
Still fresh tasting, this long aged release is mature, with receding fruit and smoky, stony character of spiced plum, dried cherry, and a firm, minerally driven structure shaded with white pepper that blankets the finish. $50