Armed with world-class grapes from their family vineyards farmed in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, proprietors Rob and Brenda Mercer have branched out over time with several Mercer Wine brands. The brands range from premium Mercer Reserves to Small Lot selections to Mercer Bros, and Subsoil value-buys.
The Mercer family planted the first wine grapes in the Horse Heaven Hills in 1972, where to this day Cabernet Sauvignon grapes remain a cornerstone. Mercer Estates Winery in Prosser, WA was born during the 2005 vintage and continues on the tradition of producing fine Cabernet, joined by a plethora of other varietals and blends.
The first time I ever tasted a Mercer wine was at the winery in Prosser, well over a decade ago. I still remember being struck by the expressive terroir character that shone like a beacon through all of the reds I tasted that day, while gazing up at the framed photographs of Horse Heaven Hills vineyards that decorated the walls of the tasting room. Each estate wine profiled gorgeous fruit elements supported by elegant structure.
Now, sitting here and and tasting through these eight brand new releases strikes a familiar chord from those early tasting memories of knowing that Mercer wines have always had “it.” Character-plus, I call it. Perhaps the “it” factor comes from a multitude of factors. Such as the various sandy soil types underlying Mercer’s many individual vineyards that stretch in and around the rugged farmland plateaus of the Heavens dimpled with canyons, which lend differing climactic influences on the grape varietals. Or perhaps it’s the barrage of steady winds blowing from the mighty Columbia River that give the vines and grapes their stoic traits. The end results are solid wines, driven by world-class fruit and finished with respect by the winemaking team, led by head winemaker Ashley Stephens. —Editor John Vitale
Below are 8 releases we recently reviewed:
Mercer Family Vineyards 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
93 pts. Editors Choice: Outstanding Buy!
Refined, with sweet tobacco and spice notes that chime in with plump blackberry, dark plum and currants intertwined with a sheen of fine tannins. Well structured, ending with cocoa and vanilla bean accents that radiate in concentric fashion, gaining momentum from all the elements combined that add sharp focus and length to the firm and engaging finish. $24.99
Mercer Bros. 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon
91 pts.
The grapes for this red are 100% estate grown by the Mercer family in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Aromas of dark berries and roasted coffee introduce jammy black currant and cherry paste flavors on the well-structured midpalate. Moderately gripping tannins meld with fresh acidity to create tempered balance, with spice details lingering on the aftertaste. $19.99
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec
Mercer Estates 2019 Small Lot Grenache
93 pts.
Earthy aromas of cigar wrapper, juniper berry, dried herbaceous notes and dark fruit leap from the glass in this expressive and savory red. The silky mouthfeel bursts with tarry notes of white pepper, black raspberry, dried sage and iron. Hints of blue fruit and red vines surface on the deeply concentrated and lengthy finish. $35
Mercer Estates 2018 Small Lot Petit Verdot
93 pts.
Inky black-crimson in color, this red is densely packed with blueberry, blackberry, violet and sage layered with barrel spice and warm coriander notes. Snowflake tannins lend a firm grip to the colossal, tightly-coiled structure that expands on the finish with black licorice notes. Sourced from Milt’s Vineyard, situated on a southeastern slope above the Columbia River. $35
Mercer Estates 2022 Small Lot Sauvignon Blanc
92 pts.
This white wine is both fresh and juicy at the same time, displaying grapefruit, green apple and lemongrass details heavily tinged with lime zest and lychee. A backbone of inviting energetic acidity amplifies the charm, resonating on the finish. 100% Sauvignon grapes from two vineyards, Culloden and Spice Cabinet. $21
Mercer Estates 2022 Small Lot Rosé
92 pts.
Lively, crisp and pure, this light pink-hued Rosé is filled with upbeat aromas and flavors of strawberry, watermelon rind, fresh cranberries and lemon citrus. A spear of minerally acidity dazzles on the zesty and deep-flavored finish. The grapes are 100% Grenache from Spice Cabinet Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. $21
Mercer Estates 2022 Small Lot Viognier
92 pts.
Nearly half of the grapes were fermented in a clay amphorae, and the rest in stainless steel drums, resulting in a pure, concentrated and creamy mouthfeel. Tropical aromas and flavors gush with orange citrus, white peach, mango and pineapple that ripple with smooth-edged acidity that lingers with exciting vibrancy. $21
Mercer Estates 2022 Small Lot White Blend
91 pts.
Sauvignon Blanc was blended with Viognier for this appealing white wine, delivering a rich-bodied mouthfeel backed by refreshing grapefruit, gooseberry and passion fruit that harmonize around a nucleus of energetic acidity. Zesty lime and honeysuckle details cling to the persistent finish. $21