Owner and winemaker Gino Cuneo has been making wines in Oregon and Washington for a quarter century. He has spent the past 15 years pioneering how Italian varietals express themselves in American soil. His latest vineyard project, Calvri, is located in the Horse Heaven Hills, though to see it you’d think you were in Piedmont, Italy, where Cuneo has traveled frequently to learn Old World secrets of winemaking and cultivating practices.
“I’m just trying to explore the best places and the best way of making these wines,” says Cuneo. His work led to the first planting in America of a certified, commercial “Brunello” clone of Sangiovese as well as a Romagnolo clone.
Incredibly, he also produces the only true Appassimento (Amarone) style wine made in America, a labor-intensive feat dating back to Roman times. The grape clusters are laid out on drying racks for several months, resulting in a weight loss of 30-35% that builds concentrated flavors and added complexity.
Seccopassa is a rare Washington wine made in the Appassimento style producing a rich red wine with penetrating flavors of red currants, dried fig, cherry compote, date fruit, spiced plum and red licorice with textural tannins that race through the lasting finish.
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding
Alcohol: 15.8%
Website: www.ginocuneocellars.com