Winemaker Co (Coman) Dinn says he strives for classically styled wines with exceptional balance, finesse and character. Indeed, if his wines were a silver screen star, they would be a leading man like Cary Grant, exuding that classic, suave radiance about them with faultless delivery.
Holding a master’s degree in winemaking from UC Davis, Co has been making wine since 1989, first in the Napa Valley and since 1996 in the Yakima Valley. He left Hogue Cellars as winemaking director in 2013 to strike out on his own—and in the summer of 2017 opened the long-awaited production winery and tasting room in a converted Deco-inspired building in the city’s historic center.
Co is a walking encyclopedia when it comes to understanding what each vineyard has to offer. During his 17 years at Hogue Cellars, he formed a deep knowledge of grapes from all areas of the Columbia Valley AVA that one acquires only through time and experience. “In over 20 vintages in Washington I have worked with some of the best vineyards in the state and know the growers well. I have chosen jewels to work with; vineyards able to deliver outstanding fruit year after year,” he says.
Yakima Valley grapes are at the heart Co Dinn Cellars, which specializes in vineyard-designated wines from unique sites in and around the appellation. “As a winemaker, I believe in committing to a world-class growing region, planting a flag (so to speak) and devoting a career to learning and knowing everything you can about it,” says Co.
“I study each site: the soil, the slope, the heat accumulation, the elevation. I have identified vineyards that are optimal in those respects for their grape varieties and are coupled with an outstanding grower,” he explains. “The result is a unique vineyard with intensity and character, which can be expressed in my wines year after year.”
Co Dinn Cellars 2014 Lonesome Spring Ranch Vineyard GSM Red Wine, $45
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
Rich, fresh and vibrantly aromatic, streaked with white pepper and mineral stone accents backed by juicy, suave flavors of black and red berries, cherry paste and hints of dried blueberry. Polished and concentrated, light herb and sage notes linger on the aftertaste.
Co Dinn Cellars 2014 Roskamp Vineyard Block Two Syrah, $50
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
Brilliantly structured, flowing with silky texture and expansive depth behind the concentrated flavors and floral-lined expressions of cherry, violet, red currant and cocoa, with gripping tannins and savory edges of smoke and stone.
Visit: 501 Grant Ave, Sunnyside; open Thur-Sun 11-5pm, www.codinncellars.com