You won’t find any glitzy hype here—just smooth, patiently-crafted red wines and a tasting room designed with a nod to the functionality that arose with the Arts and Crafts movement of the early twentieth century. “Simpler is better. Square and solid. Timeless. Honest. Built to last,” reiterates winemaker Greg Shelman, a former wood worker whose work was inspired by the movement.
“I find a lot of similarities between wood working and wine making. In both, you are starting with a natural product, a tree or a vine. Then, through working with the lumber or the grapes, one ultimately produces something completely different, fine furniture or fine wine,” says Greg, adding, “Something from nothing, almost.”
When a downturn in the economy hurt his custom furniture business, he shifted gears and became the first graduate of WSU’s Viticulture and Enology program in 2003. After several years honing his talent at Arbor Crest winery, he and his wife, Margo, dove into the winery business.
Greg subscribes to the old French winemaking axiom, Treat the vine like a rowdy step-child and the wine like a princess. “All movements and procedures are gentle on the wine,” he explains. “We are a gravity winery. I have no pumps, hoses or tanks. Rackings are powered by gravity siphon.” It takes Greg about 45 minutes to empty a barrel by siphon, pointing out he could do it in less than a minute if he chose to use a wand and pump. “The turbulence to the wine created by the pump is exponentially greater than with gravity,” he says in defense of his old school methodology.
Greg’s artistic side compels him to make the finest wines he is capable of, no matter how diligent the process may be. “Gustav Stickley, who was the father of the Arts and Crafts movement had this motto on his labels, ‘Als ik kan,’ which means, ‘If I can.’ I think he meant that with each piece he pledged to make it the best piece possible ‘Als ik kan.’ And so, likewise, I pledge to make the best wine possible, if I can.”
Visit the tasting room in the city’s fashionable Kendall Yards district at 1194 W Summit Parkway, Spokane; www.craftsmanwinery.com
Craftsman Cellars 2014 Wahluke Slope Mattawa Red, $36
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
This full-bodied blend of Cabernet and Syrah is smooth and generous, offering enticing aromas of berries, brown sugar and cocoa, adding to the deep, rich flavors of blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate notes that fuse together on the long finish.
Craftsman Cellars 2014 Wahluke Slope Cabernet Sauvignon, $32
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
This version opens with rich aromas of black and red berries, dark chocolate almond bark and dried herbs. Lean and sinewy, with a swath of firm yet finely integrated tannins backed by acidity and bold flavors of early picked blackberries, red currant, cassis and cacao nib. Hints of loamy earth persist on the well-structured, dry finish.
Craftsman Cellars 2014 Wahluke Slope Pinot Noir, $29
Editor’s Choice – Excellent (88-90 pts.)
Sourced from a warm growing site, this Pinot Noir displays aromas of crushed rock, pie cherry and dried berries. A bold, rich version, with earthen flavors of leather, red cherry, dried cranberry and details of vanilla bean. Stays concentrated, finishing with warm hints of barrel spice.
Craftsman Cellars 2014 Syrah, $29
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
Aromas of earthen spice, dark fruit and molasses echo on the rich, juicy palate with deeply concentrated flavors of blackberry and dark stone fruit accented by expressive notes of tobacco, cocoa and hints of smoke and rock.