Devium Wine might be one of the newer kids on the block, but Keith Johnson’s side project is bursting with passion. While enrolled in the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program, Keith worked side by side with Jerry Solomon and Trey Busch, partners of Sleight of Hand Cellars. In 2011 when they moved facilities, Keith moved with them. When Keith decided he wanted a few barrels of his own wines, his employers agreed to back him. Keith elaborates, saying, “Jerry and Trey came to me with an offer to ensure I couldn’t ever leave… to make me a small partner in Sleight of Hand and to also back me in starting a small side project.” Thus Devium was born.
Keith has invested his intense passion for Washington wines in creating a label that honors the history and land through the exploration of its traditions and boundaries. “I typically pick earlier than my peers, I work with lesser known varieties, I try to push the boundaries of vineyard location, trellising and farming techniques and I make the wines in the most minimal way possible,” Keith asserts.
It’s this philosophy that has produced an eclectic portfolio of truly delightful single-vineyard wines. When speaking about his process for making wine, Keith eloquently states, “It is about tradition and history, spontaneous fermentations and foot stomping. This is my take on Washington wine, with a huge amount of respect for those who have paved the way.”
And his passion shows in the two releases we sampled below.
Devium tastings are by appointment only at Sleight of Hand Cellars at 1959 JB George Rd, Walla Walla. Currently there is no tasting fee and you can schedule an appointment by phoning at (541) 310-0317 or visit the website for more info at www.deviumwine.com.
Devium 2016 Elevation Vineyard Marsanne, $34
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
Enticingly creamy in feel, with exotic aromas and flavors of creamed peach, lemon crème fraiche and malt extract infused with warm savory undertones of slate, basalt and dried herb notes that linger on the finish.
Devium 2016 French Creek Vineyard Red Wine, $34
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
This field blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache Blanc offers a scintillating sensory experience, loaded with spicy red fruit, plum and white pepper underpinned with leather, rose tea and herbaceous notes. Built with verve and panache, finishing with citrusy edges of ruby red grapefruit and a sheen of fleshy acidity.