Go Wine Tasting in the San Juan Archipelago

Escape to picturesque San Juan Island and Orcas Island for a laid-back affair, where nature, artistry and wineries intertwine

Written by MaryRose Denton and photographed by Richard Schmitz
Wine reviews by editor John Vitale

ANYTIME of year is perfect to visit the San Juan Islands and take the pace of life down a few notches. Slip graciously into island time with a glass of wine to complete the escape. Immerse yourself in the full experience these enchanting islands offer, from nature to artistry, and wine exploration—even several island-grown varieties.

Getting to the Islands

The most common form of travel to this chain of small islands is aboard a Washington state ferry. Riding the ferry through the varied rugged landscape of this archipelago is a laid-back affair. Board the ferry in Anacortes (about 90 minutes north of Seattle), and from the moment it casts off consider the trip a scenic mini-cruise.

The voyage to San Juan Island takes about an hour, sometimes with a stop at Orcas Island or Lopez Island along the way, allowing ample time to walk on deck, inhale the briny air, and take a selfie with the ocean landscape.

Destination: San Juan Island

Cruising into the east side of San Juan Island by water you arrive at the quaint, artisan town of Friday Harbor, the “Gateway to the San Juan Islands.” Easily walkable, this charming seaport town is lined with street art, boutiques, galleries, restaurants, and of course tasting rooms in which to recline the afternoon away while gazing out over the breathtaking harbor views. Resident seals or porpoise are often spotted. Friday Harbor is known for its marine life, including the resident pods of orcas (killer whales) who call these waters home.

In fact, the University of Washington keeps a field station here specializing in the study of marine biology. If spotting a whale excites you, there are whale watching tours available, leaving the marina daily or visit the Whale Museum, a natural history museum founded in 1979.

San Juan Museum of Art on Spring Street is a haven for local art exhibits, featuring works from all around the islands and Pacific Northwest.

Mike’s Cafe & Wine Bar in the heart of downtown on 2nd Street hosts a large wine list from all over the islands, the region, and around the globe. Restaurants like this one source locally grown produce supporting the farmers and agriculture produced right on the islands. Vice-versa, farms throughout the islands support a bubbling viticulture and farm-to-table cuisine, synthesizing great partnerships and a symbiotic perfection.

Madrone Cellars & Cider

A stroll from the ferry dock and marina, Madrone Cellars and wine garden is situated in the center of Friday Harbor. Drop down into a comfy armchair and sample a flight of natural wines, either in one of the lounges or outside on the garden patio, with harbor views.

Much like the native Madrone tree, owners Shaun and Amy Salamida have deep roots here on San Juan Island. Here they met, fell in love, and call this place home. After earning a masters degree in viticulture and enology from Oregon State University, Salamida had journeyed to San Juan Island on holiday a decade ago, putting his resume in with a local vineyard on a whim. “They hired me on the spot,” he says.

The initial spark for Madrone Cellars began as the Salamida’s dreamed about their future. This led to travels to Europe in 2018 to experience firsthand the continent’s sustainable farming methods and winemaking.

“While we were traveling, we realized we appreciate wine that reflects where it came from and how it was formed,” says Salamida. “Our wines, and even our ciders, reflect our travels and the memories of those tastes, smells, and textures of the destination. Now they reflect our home here on San Juan Island.”

Today he is well respected by the local farmers, as well as other wine and cider makers. It is important to Salamida to work with vineyards who are certified Salmon Safe and LIVE (low-impact viticulture) certified. In addition to their ciders, another very popular line are their various Pét-Nat wines, short for a French term Pétillant Naturel, meaning the wine is ‘naturally sparkling.’

In 2021, they entered into a partnership with Saltwater Farms, an organic farm on the island, where they established their first estate vineyard. Within a few more years of biodynamic farming they will be producing Pinot Noir, Albariño, and Siegerrebe grapes for their sparkling Pét-Nat wines.

Madrone Cellars wines can be purchased online with shipping provided to local areas.

San Juan Vineyard

Only 10 minutes outside of Friday Harbor, San Juan Vineyard delights with broad views of its estate vineyard. Relax on the patio of the tasting room, once the island’s first schoolhouse. Or sink into an Adirondack chair and toast the good life with their signature Afterglow Rosé, which gets its name from the pale pink sunsets found at the local Afterglow beach.

Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine are two unique white wine varietals grown here. “Many first-time visitors haven’t even heard of these varietals or are unaware that this region of the state grows grapes,” says hospitality manager Terra Luthi. “We truly love giving them their first taste of the Puget Sound AVA, which is by far the coolest and wettest growing region in Washington. These are wines you won’t easily find elsewhere in the state.”

A Saturday evening spent at the winery during their Summer Music Series features a different musician every Saturday from 6 to 8pm. “Our Summer Music Series draws a special mix of tourists and islanders who are all there for the wine and the show,” says Luthi. “For visitors, this is a chance to spend an evening like an islander.” While the Summer Music Series is seasonal, Luthi looks forward to its return next summer. Life does not get much better than great wine, good music, and a beautiful setting.

Attractions on San Juan Island

Touring the island offers the chance to take in its splendid natural beauty and learn some of its history too. The easiest way to get around the island is by car but if you prefer a more eco-friendly and fun way to move about, try out a moped or electric bike from Suzie’s Moped Rentals.

Cruising on a bright red scooter from Suzie’s, head out on the southern tip of the island to American Camp, located inside the San Juan Island National Park. The historic buildings standing amidst the prairie grass and overlooking the Haro Strait once housed U.S. soldiers during the U.S./British occupation known as the Pig War.

Pack binoculars because this area is also a prime bird-watching spot with over 200 species of migratory birds residing here.

Before heading further inland stop by the San Juan Bakery for a take-out sandwich lunch from fresh-baked loaves. Then head for a French-inspired picnic among the lavender flowers at Pelindaba Lavender. These fields are open all year and are free to the public.

Standing on a rocky bluff on the west side of the island is historic Lime Kiln Lighthouse, a destination in its own right with its rugged beauty and abundant sea life—including, if you are lucky, the resident orcas. Every May through September the whales follow the salmon runs through these channels. Lime Kiln State Park is a day-use park with accessible trails suitable for most travelers.

Roche Harbor

At the northwest point of the island lies the very picturesque resort town and marina of Roche Harbor. Popular among boaters, Roche Harbor faces the U.S./Canadian border making it the perfect place to anchor for a night. Do some shopping or grab a glass of vino at one of three waterfront restaurants. And each night at 7pm the flags flying above the harbor are lowered to the national anthem of both the United States and Canada.

Destination: Orcas Island

From Friday Harbor catch the inter-island ferry to Orcas Island and explore the archipelago’s largest island at 57 square miles. This is the only free ferry connecting the islands together, making for a scenic mode of transportation.

Disembarking at the town of Orcas is just the gateway to this gem of the San Juans, where there is something for everyone—from hiking, camping, boating, fishing, shopping, art touring and wine tasting.

Head to Eastsound, the island’s hub, where there are two main wineries and a distillery creating fun, fanciful and tasty spirits.

The Orcas Project

Founder Cole Sisson grew up on Orcas Island. Eventually his interests found him heading off into the world, where he established connections both in the culinary and wine worlds. His Seattle connections steered him to establish a career as a sommelier, an importer, and a brand manager further opening up opportunities that took him around the world. Then ultimately, Sisson returned back home to the island.

The Orcas Project was born from different ideas that Sisson “smashed” together into one synthesized business model that can be summarized in one word—collaboration.

Sisson’s project has attracted winemakers from around the state, and he “pairs” each of them up with an Orcas Island artist to design the label. “The wines may come from all over the world but the heart of this project is rooted here on Orcas,” he says.

The winemakers are friends that Sisson has connected with through the years working in the industry. Most have their own wineries and relationships with well-known grape growers. Winemaker Morgan Lee, of Two Vintners and Covington Cellars, created the 2020 Red Blend for The Orcas Project, using mostly Boushey Vineyard Grenache for the base of this Rhône style red wine. Another talent, Riley Miller, of Sonder Wines and the vineyard manager for Hattrup Farms, produced the 2021 Cinsaut Rosé with Yakima Valley fruit.

The project is a win for the winemaker and a win for the artist. Sisson’s wine brand and his tasting room reflect his joyful, playful, and inquisitive spirit.

Orcas Island Winery

Situated at the base of Turtleback Mountain near Eastsound sits this enchanting winery titled appropriately enough, Orcas Island winery. The landscape surrounding these experimental vineyards of Madeleine Angevine and Pinot Noir grapes is breathtaking, making it an ideal place to kick back and picnic on the grass. Orcas Island Winery is family-friendly, including your canine family, so come spend the afternoon among the vines.

This is a family run business with owners Tera Andaya and Wesley Landman, along with their son Winston. Together they have created a community venue for culture. “It’s a hub for chefs, musicians and artists,” says Andaya. “With events such as our summer concert series and rotating art exhibits, at the heart of what we do is always this community vibe.”

Inside the old farmhouse, now upgraded into a beautiful tasting room, they pour up to 10 locally produced wines, including their Pét-Nat sparkling wines.

Pair these, or any of their blends, with a “build your own charcuterie board” and declare the afternoon a winner. Orcas Island Winery is open five days a week but in case you can not make it to the tasting room they will deliver right to your doorstep, even if it’s a sailboat!

Orcas Island Distillery

While in Eastsound, pop into this distillery to sample whiskey, gin, and apple brandies, all produced on the island. Their apple and pear brandies are made from island grown, heirloom fruit and hand-picked right out of the orchard. Harvest time becomes a community effort picking 12 tons of apples pressed into 1,000 gallons of cider which eventually ferments into 130 gallons of brandy.

Eat, Browse and Shop on Orcas Island

In between tastings, dash off for some sustenance at The Kitchen in Eastsound for a bowl of raman among the restaurant’s peaceful gardens.

Better yet, stop in the Orcas Food Co-op and assemble your own picnic lunch, then head on up to the top of Mount Constitution inside Moran State Park. From this vantage point, it feels as if you are on top of the world, gazing out over Sucia Island and much of this stunning archipelago.

Explore across the island to Doe Bay Resort and Cafe. This world-class farm-to-table eatery has waterfront views of this pristine bay. There are natural spring hot tubs, which are a large attraction of this sleepy cove.
At Orcas Island Artworks browse works from over 45 island artists, from watercolors to pottery, photography to postcards, all with an island theme.

Eastsound is filled with boutique and unique shops. Walk in one direction up the street and find Island Thyme, an apothecary filled with soaps, salves, and lotions. Dart the other direction and into Darvill’s Bookstore, an independent bookstore. Très Fabu! is a European-inspired boutique clothing store in a charming cottage where the motto is “simple luxury with effortless style.”

Passenger Ferries and Charters: Board the San Juan Clipper from Seattle’s waterfront, the Puget Sound Express from Port Townsend, or San Juan Cruises from Bellingham for a day or overnight trips.