Take a springtime tour of the annual Skagit Valley Tulip Festival and five tasting rooms along a 30-minute pastoral drive between Mount Vernon and La Conner
Written by MaryRose Denton and photographed by Richard Schmitz
Wine reviews by editor John Vitale
SOME FOLKS call it paradise on earth as the usually green and lush agriculture fields of the Skagit Valley turn into a living rainbow comprised of tulips. Located almost halfway between Seattle and Vancouver B.C., this pretty valley of rolling farmland is nestled between the waters of the Salish Sea and the foothills of the Cascade Mountains, with Mount Baker’s snow-capped peaks the most visible.
Each spring when the tulips are in glorious bloom, the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival happens. The festival is designed as a self-guided driving tour within the flower fields that sit between the quaint towns of Mount Vernon and La Conner.
Meandering down these rural roads surrounded by colorful tulips may feel more like a trip to Holland but there is no passport required. The Skagit Valley is the largest producer of tulips, outside of Holland, making this is a busy season due to many events centered around the bloom. After traipsing through fields and tromping in mud, it’s time to put your feet up and enjoy sipping a glass of wine as the sun sets.
Driving Tour: Wine & Tulips
Five wineries and tasting rooms are spread along a driving route that meanders from the south end of Mount Vernon through scenic farmlands and tulip fields, down the road less traveled to the artisan town of La Conner. Along the way you’ll discover wineries producing world-class wines while soaking up the wild beauty of this agricultural valley.
The wine trail begins in the county seat of Mount Vernon—which may very well be known as the Valley of Tulips, tulips, and more tulips. Yet it is a rich agricultural hub offering visitors a plethora of wild landscapes, locally-sourced produce, and lively art scene.
From the old-fashioned, brick buildings lining First Street to the funky alleyways and courtyards, the downtown corridor of Mount Vernon holds a charm all its own. Take a stroll and soak up the town’s atmosphere or walk out along the Riverwalk which parallels the flowing waters of the Skagit River. This valley town pulses with art, culture, food, and a brewery or two.
Bertelsen Winery
Sitting up on a pastoral hillside in southern Skagit County, Bertelsen Winery has been sharing excellent wines since May 2014, ever since opening their spacious tasting room. Considered the “Gateway to the Tulips” this winery and vineyard is the perfect place to leave the city behind for a day.
Stepping into the elegant yet unpretentious tasting room is like stepping into a friend’s kitchen for an evening chat over a glass of wine. According to co-owners Steve and Ali Bertelsen, this is exactly the feeling they strive to convey. Steve is a second-generation Skagitonian, growing up on this farm and in this valley.
“It is more like you are family when you are here. Consider us a home away from home,” says Ali with a welcoming smile. Food is served to enhance the wines, such as tapas plates or artisan pizzas like the Mediterranean with pesto and goat cheese.
Move your wine flight outdoors in the summer to bask on the lawn of Bertelsen’s rolling hillside while listening to a concert of cool jazz, country swing, or good ole’ rock’n roll.
Editor’s Picks
Bertelsen Winery White Blend (NV), 91 pts.
Scintillating, this white blend of Riesling, Sauvignon blanc and Pinot Gris is quite floral, with enchanting aromas of jasmine, yellow apple, honeysuckle, beeswax and tangerine that echo on the palate. A spear of lemon-lime acidity explodes on the palate, filled in with wetstone and Bartlett pear flavors that chime in on the tangy yet semi-sweet finish. $23 —JV
Bertelsen Winery 2017 Red Mountain AVA Cabernet Sauvignon, 92 pts.
Powerfully framed and concentrated, with dark cocoa, tobacco and forest floor aromas that mingle with penetrating blackberry, cassis and black cherry flavors. Flattering notes of pencil shavings, sage and spice are layered with taut acidity and refined tannins that roll endlessly along the finish. $38 —JV
Their venue, aptly named The Vine, is designed in that casual elegance which is the winery’s trademark. Many a wedding or special occasion has happened here under their vines. A stroll through the estate vineyard showcases Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Madeleine Angevine varieties they use throughout many of their blends. For additional grapes requiring a hotter growing climate, they pull from vineyards all over Eastern Washington.
Pasek Cellars
If fruit wines such as cranberry, raspberry, or blackberry start your taste buds tingling then Pasek is keeping a bottle with your name on it. Named as the official Tulip Festival Wine for several years running, including 2021 and 2022, Pasek Cellars has been crafting their fruit wines in this valley for over two decades. They offer seventeen wine varieties to choose from including their most popular berry wines, dry reds, white wine blends, and port-style dessert wines.
With the winery just steps away from the tasting room, husband and wife team David James and Judy Pascale invite guests to tour the winemaking process. Pascale considers it a great opportunity to see “wine in motion.” With James as the winemaker and Pascale more or less the “jane-of-all-things-wine,” their fruit wine process is not only hands-on but unique in the small batches which can be made all year long, without waiting for the fall harvest.
Editor’s Picks
Pasek Cellars Blackberry Wine, 91 pts.
Made from 100% whole Northwest blackberries, this medium sweet wine displays concentrated juicy blackberry aromas and flavors, accented with dried herbs and floral hints. Finishes on the drier side and lightly tart. Serve slightly chilled or room temperature. Kosher certified. $12 —JV
Pasek Cellars Cranberry Wine, 92 pts.
Delightfully versatile, this light-bodied wine is superb served alongside fish, fowl, pork and spicy cuisine. Hand-crafted from whole cranberries, exuding tart cranberry flavors evenly matched with sweet raspberry. This fruit wine is balanced without being cloyingly sweet. Best served chilled. Kosher certified. $12 —JV
Pasek Cellars offers a complimentary tasting of up to five wines. Whether sitting outside next to a flower bed of tulips or inside at the bar surrounded by sunny-colored walls filled with artwork from local artists, this place has something for everyone. Pascale believes wine is to be shared and what better way to remember a great day among the tulip fields than by taking home a souvenir bottle to “reconnect with the day and the very special experience.”
Tulip Valley Winery
A family-operated winery, co-owners Ector and Shanna DeLeon produce handcrafted red and white table wines using estate grapes from their two Washington vineyards, one here in Skagit Valley and the other east of the Cascade Mountains near Sunnyside.
Surrounding a 1920s gothic-roofed, old dairy barn and tasting room are three acres of organically grown Pinot Noir grapes growing alongside their apple orchard. This vineyard and grove, in turn, produce various blends of specialty wines, as well as an award-winning cider named Burro Loco.
Editor’s Top Picks
Tulip Valley Winery Red Barn Red (NV), 90 pts.
Smoothly polished, this blend of Cabernet, Malbec and Tempranillo is loaded with graphite and dark chocolate characteristics flanked by black cherry and spice details. Lightly chalky tannins follow through on the well-structured finish. $18 —JV
Tulip Valley Winery 2019 Gewürztraminer, 92 pts.
A sweeter version (6% residual sugar) that dazzles with a touch of effervescence, centered around aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, melon, sweet lychee fruit and orange blossom. Crafted with estate-grown grapes from the winery’s Abberin Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. $18 —JV
While the majority of the grapes are grown in the Columbia Valley at their Abberin Vineyard, all of the grapes are crushed and created into wine inside the barn. Commencing with the Tulip Festival, the winery will be hosting food trucks throughout the summer. Fill a picnic basket, grab a bottle and sit out under the vines enjoying the landscape of this vast and beautiful valley. With Mount Baker as the backdrop, the hustle and bustle of every day life eases away. Bring the kids too, even the furry ones.
La Conner, A Tiny Town With Big Charm
La Conner, an iconic destination spot is one of the places locals and travelers love to visit, again and again. Named one of Washington’s most romantic towns, La Conner captures the sweet simplicity of small town life.
Stroll the length of town along La Conner’s boardwalk for a fabulous perspective of Rainbow Bridge that stretches across the Swinomish channel. The bridge has become as iconic a landmark as this quaint tourist town.
Walk back up First Street to discover the charming downtown filled with artisan boutiques, off-beat antique shops, and a culinary array of restaurants to tempt anyone’s palate.
Skagit Crest Vineyard & Winery
Follow the wine map to this intimate tasting room in downtown La Conner overlooking the waters of the Swinomish Channel. Co-owned by Chuck and Donna Jackson, this relaxing spot overlooks the channel and sailboats that skim along with the tide as the sun sets behind Rainbow Bridge.
“Great wines begin in the vineyard,” explains Jackson as he pours a tasting of their popular Chuckanut White. “And we grow local wines from local vines.”
From their five-acre estate vineyard in Sedro-Woolley, they produce the majority of their fine wines, giving their varietals authentic terroir of the Skagit Valley. These valley wines complement everything from fresh Salmon to the latest in wild, foraged mushrooms.
Editor’s Picks
Skagit Crest Vineyard 2017 Estate Pinot Noir, 92 pts.
Sleek, expressive and richly tailored, made with estate fruit grown in Sedro-Woolley. There’s a lovely rounded mouthfeel brimming with raspberry and cherry flavors inlaid with eucalyptus and tea leaf. Clove and white pepper notes pick up on the smooth and graciously structured finish. $27 —JV
Skagit Crest Vineyard 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, 91 pts.
Grapes for this high-toned red wine hail from Martinez & Martinez Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Bursting with snappy dark cherry and minerally-driven structure, the midpalate displays refined layers of cocoa powder, vanilla, tobacco and spice on the firm, lightly tannic finish. $27—JV
Time, place, and circumstance tell the story behind the Jackson family’s wines. Time to tend the vines as well as time to savor the final product. Place not only captures the terroir of this valley but also conjures up images of your favorite place to kick back and enjoy a glass of their wine. Circumstance reaches beyond the cultivation of the grapes to enjoying a glass over a fine meal with those you hold most dear.
Skagit Cellars
Located on the edge of Gilkey Square in downtown La Conner, Skagit Cellars offers a wide collection of award-winning wines. This classically decorated tasting room is one of two owned by vintner Mark Hulst; the other one is in the town of Manson by Lake Chelan.
Hulst’s story began, humbly enough, inside his garage as a home winemaker. Finding it rather fun to play around with wines his interest grew into a thriving business. Sourcing his grapes from Eastern Washington vineyards primarily in the Lake Chelan and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs, Hulst says, “I don’t alter the fruit” desiring to “create a standout variety from year to year.”
Editor’s Picks
Skagit Cellars 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, 92 pts.
Barrel aged for three years, this red delivers a potent mix of cassis, blackberry, dark plum and cherry flavors endowed with tobacco, violet and spice notes. Stately, backed by a firm structure and chewy tannins that stand out on the long finish. $42 —JV
Skagit Cellars 2020 Winston Chardonnay, 90 pts.
Made in a lean, crisp style with grapes grown in the Lake Chelan AVA. Evoking aromas of lemon citrus, green apple and honeysuckle flower, the palate is filled with apricot and melon expressions that finish with mineral accents on the clean-cut finish. $24 —JV
His greatest joy is “sharing wine with people in the tasting room.” And there is no better time to share or sample a Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay than during the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival. Hulst adds, “After seeing the tulips, come on in. You are most welcome.” The tasting room is open daily.
Where to Eat, Drink & View the Tulip Fields
Dine in La Conner
Here are a few dining suggestions in La Conner, several that pair well with wine:
La Conner Seafood & Prime Rib House – for an elegant dining experience specializing in local seafood
The Oyster & Thistle – fresh seafood entrees in an intimate setting for those romantic dinners and party of two
Nell Thorn of La Conner Waterfront Bistro – sophisticated bistro fare with wines to pair, all while sitting outside enjoying the view over the boardwalk.
La Conner Brewing – for craft beers and modern pub fare
La Conner Pub and Eatery – classic pub fare accompanied by stunning scenery of the channel.
There truly is something for everyone in La Conner, including authentic Southwest and Mexican food at Santo Coyote Kitchen or COA Mexican Eatery.
Wine Bars of LA Conner
If you desire to peruse a wide variety of Washington wines then pop into either one of these wine bars while in town.
Hellams Vineyard in La Conner – a popular wine bar and shop
La Conner Sips – a quaint space for wine and beer tastings.
Dine in Mount Vernon
Here are several restaurants to try when you are in town:
Trumpeter Public House – for an exquisite meal with an extensive wine and spirits menu. Ask for one of their in-house cocktails.
Taste of India – serving the taste and cuisine of northern India, the land of “spices and flavors”.
Thai House Restaurant – voted “Best Thai Restaurant” of the Skagit Valley several years in a row, stop in here for a taste of the exotic.
Temperate Habits – a cozy, family-owned brewpub with creative takes on regular pub fare. Ask for a plate of their poutine and wash it down with a craft brew.
If Italian is more your mood then head to Pacioni’s or Il Granaio Authentic Italian Restaurant
Skagit Valley Tulip Festival
The Skagit Valley Tulip Festival runs from April 1-30 and with literally millions of flowers carpeting the valley, the Tulip Festival promises to be full of show-stopping splendor and color.
RoozenGaarde’s farm even has a special center platform set up to capture those postcard-worthy photos. For bloom maps and up-to-date information for everything tulips, visit the official website at tulipfestival.org.
The Tulip Fields
RoozenGaarde: a year-round garden and display you can visit at any time. During this years festival, RoozenGaarde’s will be offering General Admission tickets for $15.00 gaining you access to their gardens, 25-acre tulip fields, and 20-acre daffodil fields. A truly enchanting experience for the whole family which is sure to make lasting memories.
Tulip Town: Plan your visit to view acres of vivid color during the Tulip festival along with seasonal events held all year long. There are three access passes at varying prices: General Admission, Photography Pass for those most postable memories, and the Experience Pass for a complete farm immersion.
Additional Farm Stop:
Schuh Farms – here you can find a farmload of family fun located just off of Hwy 536, east of Tulip Valley Winery as the crow flies. Offering a cornucopia of local produce, foods, and flowers.