Venture on a winery loop around the pristine shores of Lake Chelan for a winning combination of breathtaking wines and scenic beauty
Written and photographed by Pamela and Gary Baker
Wine reviews by the editors of Washington Tasting Room Magazine
LAKE CHELAN, in the pristine wilderness of North Central Washington, has long been a popular vacation destination. Now it’s a flourishing wine region with more than 30 wineries. Many of the tasting rooms hug the shores and hillsides of this breathtaking lake, providing stunning panoramic views of the water. Several border the towns of Chelan and Manson on a hillside loop.
Formed more than 12,000 years ago, the lake was carved out by a valley glacier that extended from the crests of the Cascade Mountains to the Columbia River. The region benefits from the “lake effect,” which means more moderate temperatures than the surrounding areas, putting the region’s wine grapes at less risk for frost. The volcanic pumice-rich soils combined with high elevation and temperate conditions provide for ideal grape growing. Among the most widely-planted vinifera are Pinot Noir, Riesling and Syrah, but there are over two dozen other varieties thriving in this American Viticultural Area (AVA). With modern-day vineyard plantings dating back to 1998, Lake Chelan is quickly earning a reputation for outstanding wines and top-notch producers.
All the wineries and tasting rooms we visited had their own unique personality but one thing they share in common is “Lake Chelan hospitality.” Starting on the South Shore and working your way around to the North Shore, here is a guide to 10 wineries and tasting rooms that should top your itinerary.
Tsillan Cellars: An Italian Country Retreat
Designed to replicate an Italian country retreat, this 135-acre estate on the South Shore of Lake Chelan is surrounded by cascading waterfalls, expansive terrazzo and dramatic gardens. It’s like being transported to the beauty and serenity of Italy’s Lake Como.
Rich, hand-carved doors lead into a cathedral-like tasting room, softly lit yet gleaming with Italian marble and tile with inlaid mosaics on the porcelain floors. Stone pillars and walls are covered with custom Cabernet-colored tiles. An enormous open-beam ceiling and a curved marble bar is backed with stone-arched wine racks.
Owner Dr. Bob Jankelson says, “From the beginning, I wanted to create a venue where you could escape to Italy without the jet airplane ride. I wanted guests to experience La Dolce Vita, or the sweet life, with great food, great wine, and friends and family.”
Tastings are also held outside on the extensive patio overlooking the lake, under the porticoed roof, or even in the vineyard. “Our guests appreciate the beauty of our outdoor space and enjoy the serenity they experience tasting wine outside,” says general manager Bob Hargadon, indicating around the outdoor patio area where a koi pond is fed by a waterfall.
Tsillan Cellars 2018 Estate Syrah, 93 pts.Rich and supple, with mesmerizing dark tones of roasted coffee and cigar box fused with saturated plum, black currant, dried cherry and vanilla bean flavors. The brooding nature builds on the structured finish, offering fine intensity and length. $42
Simply gorgeous, with aromas of tropical fruit that expand mightily on the textural palate. Harmoniously layered with lush and vibrant flavors of lychee, ripe peach, pineapple and satsuma graced with floral white blossoms and jasmine. Lovely spice details linger on the expressive finish. $20
Sorrento’s, the onsite restaurant, features the finest in Italian cuisine. Named one of the Top Scenic Views Restaurants in America by Open Table Diners, this is truly a world-class venue. The baked feta Mediterranean olive plate and duck confit risotto we dined on confirmed the restaurant’s reputation for excellent food.
Tastings include a flight of five wines. The Sinistra, a red blend, is a favorite and the Malbec, Tsillan’s signature wine, consistently scores in the 95 to 97-point range.
Friendly, knowledgeable wine servers provide excellent table service both inside and out. Dr. Jankelson says, “Great wine is a result of soil, sunshine, and geography playing a symphony in the vineyard. It’s my job to find the music and instruments to play a symphony in the tasting room.” And Jewlia Quaranta, the tasting room manager, and her team play a wonderful symphony.
Rocky Pond Estate Winery: Downtown Chelan action
Owners David and Michelle Dufenhorst founded Rocky Pond Estate Winery so that they could always “celebrate the best wines with family and friends.” Although tastings are available by appointment at their Columbia River vineyard (in Orondo, WA), the sleek, modern tasting room in downtown Chelan, with its expansive bar and lounge, is where the action is. Here you can sample Rocky Pond’s award-winning Bordeaux and Rhône-style wines, as well as their whites, Rosé, and sparkling varietals in an elegant setting.
The wines are delivered to your table in five glasses stacked in a “wine tree.” An exceptionally knowledgeable server answers questions at your table as you sample the wine. Chef Austin Harmon is only too happy to prepare something from the kitchen to accompany your wine. Our goat cheese-filled tortellini, on a bed of stinging nettle and toasted walnut pesto, was a perfect pairing with our tasting.
Rocky Pond Estate Winery 2017 Reserve Malbec, 93 pts.This reserve offers enticing dark fruit, leather and violet aromas. The texture is compelling and richly built, filled with robust flavors of plum, black currant and dark cherry that finish with intensity and duration, heightened by spice and cocoa accents. $52
Enticing aromas of white flower blossoms and spice introduce this dry, crisp white, displaying a citrusy edge endorsed with complementary flavors of gooseberry and green apple. Accents of dried parsley and warm stone round out the complex finish. $24
By luck, we were joined by their winemaker, Shane Collins. The most sought-after wine is their 2017 Double D Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. “We’re the only downtown Chelan tasting room. And our reputation has people seeking out our wines,” answers Shane when asked what makes this tasting room so popular.
Tipsy Canyon Winery: Live music amphitheater
The whimsical name for this winery was inspired by an apple orchard that owners Mark and Tami Garvin came across in the Columbia Valley when they first began making wine.
The elegant, yet rustic wine tasting room sits atop a hill overlooking Wapato Lake and Roses Lake. The building, with stone and exposed wooden beams, is modern and spacious. Natural light flows in from surrounding large windows and a long, marble-topped tasting bar anchors one end of the room. On the opposite end, a huge fireplace, surrounded by comfortable couch seating, supplies warmth on those cooler days.
Plenty of additional seating on the immense grassy area outside of the tasting room provides added options to taste wine and enjoy the gorgeous view. It includes an outdoor amphitheater where live music plays every Thursday night during the summer months from June through September.
Tipsy Canyon 2018 Melange Rouge, 92 pts.Streamlined with smooth flavors of cherry, raspberry and black currant that flow through the powerful structure. There’s an earthy component with secondary layers of mocha, spice, loam and leather details. Finishes rich, savory and long. $32
A dry-tasting medium bodied white, offering citrusy aromas of nectarine, honeysuckle and fresh-cut apple. Crisp and juicy, there’s prominent acidity backed by white stone fruit and expressive lime flavors that pierce the mouthwatering finish. $26
“We’re in the experience business,” explains Mark. “We wanted architecture and spaces that are open yet intimate.”
“We did a lot of research and we wanted the tasting room to be an extension of our home,” Tami adds.
Mark and Tami take their craft seriously, resulting in numerous award-winning wines, such as their stunning Viognier, and Melange Rouge, a Bordeaux style red.
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards: Terroir-Driven Wines & Whole Picture Wines
This winery sits atop a small hill overlooking the orchards and vineyards along Lake Chelan’s North Shore. Owners Judy and Don Phelps, winemaker and vineyard manager respectively, craft wines of extraordinary distinction under the iconic Hard Row to Hoe label, as well as Whole Picture wines—an exciting newer label introduced a couple years ago with an emphasis on a sense of place, and Lake Chelan terroir.
Hard Row to Hoe is one of the pioneers of Lake Chelan AVA and the first vineyard in the AVA to be certified sustainable and Salmon-Safe. The outside grounds provide plenty of comfortable seating and a family-friendly setting. An assortment of gourmet meats and cheeses are offered to pair with your wines. They also feature bubbles by the glass (both méthode champenoise and Pét-Nat), tasting flights and chocolate port shots! The staff is very knowledgeable about the wines and are gracious hosts making everyone feel welcome.
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir, 92 pts.Mineral details drive this earthy Lake Chelan AVA red, elegantly layered with cherry, black currant, loam and tea leaf expressions backed by firm acidity, spice accents and savory richness. Lively and well structured, offset with toast accents on the long supple finish. $40
Beautifully floral, with orange blossom, apricot and jasmine aromas. Crafted in a bone-dry style, there’s a distinctive textural component inlaid with tangerine peel, melon, white flowers and underlying earthiness. The citrus, floral and spice elements add magnificent bravado to the zesty finish. $29
Single-ounce pours are served in small carafes. Don says, “People become a part of the experience as they pour it themselves, and taste at their own pace.” The five-flight menu rotates often—so you may be tasting Orange Muscat one day and a different wine the next. Open daily, wine tasting here reflects an unpretentious attitude and a relaxed, genuine experience while focusing on terroir-driven wines, grown primarily in the Lake Chelan AVA.
The name, Hard Row to Hoe, reflects the colorful history of Lake Chelan, ask about the back story when you visit.
C.R. Sandidge Wines: Luxurious Seated Tastings
Like the two glaciers that simultaneously formed Lake Chelan, Ray and Athena Sandidge have left a substantial impression on the Washington wine industry, consistently crafting award-winning wines for the past 20 years.
The tasting room in downtown Manson reflects their accomplishments with some of their finest white varietals and supple reds. Friendly and warm as the “lake effect” itself, Athena pours your wines while expertly explaining the characteristics of each one. Ray can tell you exactly which vineyard lots the grapes came from and how each wine was made.
This duo, with the combined knowledge they share, makes wine tasting special, if not luxurious. Their seated-tasting model caters to wine lovers who want to learn more about the wine growing, the grapes, and the region.
C.R. Sandidge Wines 2018 Triumph Red Wine, 95 pts.Majestically smooth and expressive, this blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet is rock solid. Macerated blackberry, deep dark cherry and currant flavors are flanked by pencil shavings, black licorice and spice. Sweet tannins meld with stony mineral and singed earth notes on the notably long and satisfying finish. Decant well. $65
Rich, plush and elegant, built around a structured matrix of crushed blackberry, red plum and vanilla bean, delivering earthy notes of mineral, spice and leather. Gains tremendous depth and length with polished tannins that add refinement to the finish. $45
They also emphasize quality of the wine and the importance of the food served with it. “Wine should shine with food,” says Ray, as Athena hands out glossy recipe cards with Ray’s suggestions for dish pairings. Self-service charcuterie board meats and Cowgirl Creamery cheeses are available.
Ray and Athena will be expanding their winery location outside of Manson. It will include a wine tasting room and onsite food where guests can partake in Ray’s creative recipe pairings for his wine. Think pan-seared duck breast with a Port reduction sauce alongside their flagship red, Triumph. Or perhaps a tomato, mushroom, caramelized onion galette matched with Caris, a Bordeaux varietal blend.
If you’re seeking a hands-on, knowledge-filled, upscale wine tasting experience, whether you visit the downtown Manson tasting room or the soon-to-open winery location, you’re sure to find satisfaction at C.R. Sandidge.
Cairdeas Winery: Love Affair With Rhône
Perhaps France remains the Old World model for New World wine, and Cairdeas Winery on Lake Chelan’s North Shore combines the two well. Focused on making wine from classic Northern and Southern Rhône wines, Cairdeas produces blends using varietals like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Carignan and Cinsault.
Inside the tasting room, photos of owners Lacey and Charlie Lybecker and their family line the walls. But the expansive outdoor seating area, with sweeping views of Lake Chelan and umbrella-shaded tables, is the place to be.
Flights typically include four wines; club members receive a bonus pour. The Caislean an Papa, a red blend of five varietals, was inspired by wines of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region of France. “We fell in love with Rhône Syrah that’s aged in concrete tank and we wanted to make our own,” says Charlie. The winery now has two concrete egg tanks, and one concrete cone for aging.
Cairdeas 2018 Boushey Vineyard Caislean an Papa, 94 pts.This easily defines New World red wines fashioned after the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. Immaculately structured, with a saturated beam of black currant, dried raspberry, mulled plum and fig flavors streaming through, carried further by tobacco, bay leaf and light hints of anise. Shows good energy on the tight grained finish. $55
A rare varietal grown in the state, there is much to adore about this estate white wine. Exquisitely structured, with lightly floral aromas of white flowers that roll onto the smooth, unctuous mouthfeel. Crisp tropical fruit and lingering honey flavors take it to the next level. $30
Children and dogs are welcome. Charcuterie boards with cheese, olives, crackers and nuts are available for purchase but guests are welcome to bring their own picnic. Don’t be surprised if Avi, the winery dog pays you a visit during your time here.
A large two-story barn next door, currently under construction at presstime, will soon replace the existing tasting room.
Succession Wines: Majestic Lake Views
Next door to Cairdeas is Succession Wines, offering majestic lake views. With expansive outdoor seating, tasting their locally-grown wines provides a lovely way to spend an afternoon.
For owners Erica and Brock Lindsay, a wildfire tragically transformed a humble hobby into a thriving wine making business. Attentive to the little touches that make people feel special and welcome, Erica and Brock want your wine tasting experience here to feel like being a guest in their home. Kid-friendly as well as dog-friendly, the outdoor seating provides plenty of space to relax.
Succession Wines 2019 Syrah, 93 pts.This blend of four AVAs is richly structured, with a plush texture evoking wild raspberry, crushed blackberry, licorice and cracked peppercorn. The polished flavors run deep, met with a lovely textural feel and earthy river stone element that stays laser focused on the lasting finish. $47
Round and fleshy, with a compelling core of rich and fruity flavors of peach, pear and apricot that flows over the minerally-backed structure. Framed with lovely floral notes of jasmine and honeysuckle that persist on the finish. $28
Experienced, knowledgeable servers pour tastings; five wines are served on a daily rotating menu of two whites and three reds. Or you can select a flight tailored to your palate. Brock says, “We think of anyone that comes to our tasting room as a guest, so if they want to tailor their tasting, we’re happy to accommodate them.”
Charcuterie boards are available for purchase, or you can bring your own food. Hospitality and customer accommodation makes wine tasting here relaxed and even uplifting.
Ancestry Cellars: The Family Tree
Wine tasting here is like a family gathering. Owner/winemaker Jason Morin and his tasting room manager, Morgan Grimm, welcome you into their comfortable wine shop in downtown Manson. You can sit on the intimate front porch or inside the stylish tasting room at a table next to a large L-shaped bar that dominates the shop’s entry.
Guests may select their choice of five wines from the tasting menu. Each one is brought to your table with an explanation of where the wine was sourced, how it was made, and its aroma and flavor profile. Morgan, popular with customers, proved attentive and excellent at providing this information.
Ancestry Cellars 2018 Reunion Chardonnay, 92 pts.A single-vineyard white from Lake Chelan AVA, with discreet oak and a lovely texture that sets the stage for peach, golden apple and honeysuckle flavors with notes of lemony citrus and lingering salinity. $27
An elegant red, with aromas of dark fruit, tobacco and rich hints of mesquite. Polished tannins and expressive spice notes run the gamut of macerated plum, marionberry, bittersweet chocolate and anise flavors balanced with fresh acidity. Shows depth and dimension, with dried currants on the deep finish. $55
All the wines are named after Jason’s family members or to commemorate special family events. Even the label on the wine bottles is symbolic of “the family tree” sketched by Jason himself.
Although he makes several reds, both stand-alone varietals and blends, Jason feels particularly proud of his white wines: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Chenin Blanc. “We surprise the heck out of people who say they typically don’t like or don’t drink white wines. They usually leave with a bottle or two,” says Jason with a sense of gratification.
WineGirl Wines: Serious Wines With Stories
Located in the charming village of Manson, the friendly WineGirl Wines tasting room staff go out of their way to make your visit special. As owner Todd Link says, “We’re truly interested in creating a memorable wine tasting experience for you.” The courteous staff welcome guests by name, even remembering their favorite wines when guests return.
The attractive wine labels feature 1940s pinup girls from vintage art that former owner/winemaker Angela Jacobs inherited from her great, great grandmother. Each tells a different story about the places where Todd and Angela grew up around the lake.
The wine tasting experience offers two menus: The Pinups or the Reserve. Customers can select a flight of four pours from either menu. You can comfortably sit outside at black wrought iron tables spread across the expansive lawn—or for more comfort, especially for large groups, inside the gazebo with seating around fire tables and pits.
WineGirl Wines 2018 RSV Syrah, 94 pts.Silky and concentrated, this elegant red is crafted with finesse, offering a moody profile of steeped plum, black raspberry compote, and cassis, cast with peppercorn and tobacco leaf details. Firm tannins coat the endless finish. $58
Complex and smooth, this intriguing blend of Merlot, Malbec and Sangiovese delivers a swath of firm tannins that flow through leather, plum, dried cherry and black fruit flavors. A bright edge of acidity offers balance to the earthy notes, finishing with deep spice character. $42
The attentive, well-trained staff visit you tableside to answer any questions you may have. These are serious wines served with a friendly attitude. A full menu of food is prepared onsite. Music is available on the weekends. The winery has a second tasting room in Leavenworth too.
Rio Vista Wines: Log Cabin Gathering Place
The moment you walk into Rio Vista’s tasting room, you’ll feel right at home. “All are welcome,” says operations manager Kelsey Chavez without airs; the atmosphere is unassuming and authentic.
Multiple generations run this family-owned winery, from grandpa John Little, the founder, his son and winemaker John Jr., and granddaughter Kelsey. “Our blood bleeds wine. Every aspect of what we do has family in it and people love us for it. Even the staff feel like family,” says Kelsey as she introduces Janice, the tasting room manager and dedicated, longtime employee.
Housed in an authentic log cabin built alongside the main highway in Manson, the tasting room is a friendly gathering place. There is patio seating around a sheltered fire pit. Inside, seating in front of the stone fireplace provides comfy options to stay and taste. The tasting room is kid-friendly, with a second story loft filled with board games and playing tables.
Rio Vista Wines 2018 Tempranillo, 91 pts.Polished and well-structured, with earthy aromas of cigar box and smoke that frame energetic red fruit of plum and cherry on the textural mouthfeel. The fruit picks up a pretty floral accent that melds with the rustic flavors, joined by firm tannins and flecks of minerality on the finish. $40
This moves graciously on the near-unctuous palate with abundant kiwi, grapefruit, fresh-cut guava and key lime aromas. A richly-tailored version that fans out with rich tropical expressions of guava, honeydew melon and white peach that stay light yet packed with flavor, depth and harmony. $30
Wines are served in flights of four, and a list of the varietals and characteristics are provided. The Rosé proves popular with customers. Food is available for purchase—try the excellent smoked salmon, caught and prepared by the winemaker himself. It comes complete with cheese, crackers and chocolates to make an admirable pairing with your flight.
Plan A Chelan Trip
Stay At The Lake
Grand View on the Lake offers studio, one-bedroom, and two-bedroom condos on Lake Chelan with spectacular views. Just steps from restaurants and shops, the resort has a private waterfront, lakeview hot tub and outdoor swimming pool, poolside snack bar, and swimming area with dock.
www.grandviewonthelake.com
Bon Appetit!
The Bistro, at 303 East Wapato Ave. in Chelan, serves European-inspired dishes prepared by Todd Miller, a former member of the Microsoft Culinary team. Housed in a historic building, it’s now decorated to look like a French bistro. The menu offers delicious choices like salade Nicoise, croque monsieur, and steak frites. Cocktails and local wines are also available.
www.chelanbistro.com
Pub Grub & Happy Hour
Campbell’s Pub and Veranda at Campbell’s Resort, at 104 W. Woodin Ave. in Chelan, is a long-time favorite. Happy Hour from 3-5pm offers small bites.
www.campbellsresort.com
Stroll, Boat, Fly
Take a stroll along the paved one-mile scenic river loop trail at Riverwalk Park. The park includes picnic areas and fishing holes.
Lady of the Lake, a great way to see the whole of Lake Chelan, makes trips to Stehekin, Holden, and other stops along the way. Or take a helicopter tour of the lake with Lake Chelan Helicopters.
Boating, golf and hiking are plentiful. Be sure to get down to the water on the sandy beaches of Lake Chelan State Park.
Plan Ahead With The Local Pros
For top-notch visitor information, reach out to the Lake Chelan Chamber of Commerce. PH: 509-682-3503
www.lakechelan.com