WASHINGTON winemakers push tough boundaries in their quest to make world-class vino. In this section, we review seven distinct styles emerging from the region.
First up is Chardonnay, which has greater competition nowadays in the category of easy-to-love-white-wines but still remains the most popular white varietal for good reasons. Sparkling wines are on the rise and Washington vintners are excelling (dare we say beating the French at the bubbly game). Rosé is a favored category, especially in the warmer months, and we highlight four food-friendly versions that are easy on the bottom-line.
Now for the reds: We feature both Left and Right Bank Bordeaux styles (blends leading with Cabernet and Merlot respectively) that are masterfully crafted. Cabernet Franc bottled as a single varietal will always be a hit among aficionados because once one falls prey to the romances of this variety, there’s no turning back.
Finally, while Zinfandel has long been a West Coast darling with big roots in California, it is still a relatively hard-to-find grape grown within state. But a few vintners are achieving exciting heights with this robust red and we hope you are as tickled by them as we were.
The Queen of White Grapes
» Flattering, with exhuberant charm, Chardonnay is the top white varietal worldwide
Pondera Winery 2020 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay
94 pts.
Richly tailored, offering aromas of melon, crème brulee and honey. The lacy, smooth texture is matched with firm acidity, filled with Fuji apple and pear tart flavors that lead to a lightly toasted midpalate. Lemon accents linger on the finish. $30
Vintner Pairings: Caesar salad; cream of asparagus soup
The Walls 2020 Martin’s Gold French Creek Vineyard Chardonnay
94 pts.
This finely-textured white is alive with elegant minerality married to flavors of white peach, Asian pear and lemon curd nuanced with honeysuckle, orchard tree blossom and Fuji apple. Luscious notes of dried sage, melon and buttery accents complete the finish. $42
Vintner Pairings: As an aperitif with fatty starters like pâté de campagne (preferably with pistachios) or oeufs mayonnaise; triple crème brie
Kerloo Cellars 2020 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay
94 pts.
Sleek and balanced across the board, with enticing aromas of poached pear, butterscotch and tropical fruit. Cleanly structured, with lots of pineapple fruit that leads the way for zesty lemon, limestone and subtle hints of coconut. The juicy citrus and mineral elements gain lively momentum on the finish. $48
Vintner Pairings: Halibut cheeks with fried shallots; seared scallops all day long
Drink Washington State 2018 Reserve Chardonnay
94 pts.
Yielding an elegant, creamy feel throughout the well-built structure, the aromas and flavors deliver a range of warm butterscotch, lemon oil, melon and pear details draped over polished stone minerality that gains footing on the sustained finish. $34
Vintner Pairings: Greek chicken gyros with tzatziki; creamy Tuscan shrimp with sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil
Tiny Bubbles
» Sparkling wines that will tickle your fancy and put an effervescent halo around your day
C.R. Sandidge Cardinal Sparkling Wine
96 pts.
Aged an incredible six years, this sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is extraordinary. The silky mousse glides across the palate, leaving a lasting impression of brioche, raspberry coulis, white peach, crisp pear and Pink Lady apple. Finishes sleek, with hints of dried herbs and minerality. $50
Vintner Pairings: Ripe sheep or cow’s milk cheeses possessing a little bit of funk; savory mushroom-cream sauced strudel topped with Crater Lake Blue crumble
Rocky Pond 2019 Domaine CheValle Sparkling Wine
95 pts.
Entirely estate grown, with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, showcasing a delicate fine mousse and minerally-backed flavors of green apple, pear, lemon and toasted brioche. Crisp and dry in the traditional style, with an exceptionally clean and sustained finish. $60
Vintner Pairings: Chef Austin Harmon’s tempura squash blossoms stuffed with goat cheese and dressed with chimichurri herbs
Treveri Cellars Blanc de Blancs Brut Zero
93 pts.
A lovely bone-dry version from this Yakima Valley sparkling wine house that has zero grams of sugar, and dazzles with tiny beads, crisp green apple, Meyer lemon and zesty minerality. Finishes juicy with firm mouthwatering acidity and full flavors. $16
Vintner Pairings: Seafood dishes, especially crab cakes with aioli; for a light dessert in the heat of summer try a beautiful dish of fresh fruit
MarkChristian Sparkling Brut
95 pts.
Aged three years in the bottle, offering a creamy, elegant and fresh feel, with attentive structure and fine mousse. Richly layered yellow apple and D’anjou pear reveal accents of red berries and pastry dough. Finishes with well-cut precision and minerally persistence. $39
Vintner Pairings: Raw oysters with a classic mignonette and fresh horseradish
Blush Wines
» These Rosés are brisk, fresh summertime sippers that blend into any conversation
Alta Cellars 2021 Rosé
92 pts.
A crisp and snappy version made with 100% Syrah from Beresford Rocks Vineyard in the Lake Chelan AVA. Watermelon, bright raspberry and rose petal aromas and flavors are accented with crushed rock, chalk, lime zest and subtle dried herbs. $28
Vintner Pairings: Pineapple-infused street tacos topped with Cotija cheese and pineapple salsa; crostini with peach, prosciutto and burrata
Lord Lion Winery 2021 Royal Blush Sangiovese Rosé
92 pts.
This pale, coral-hued version displays scents of strawberry, peach and melon that echo abundantly on the fruit-driven palate, accompanied by white cherry and juicy cranberry notes on the mouthwatering finish. $22
Vintner Pairings: Steamed prawns with Italian salsa verde (parsley/capers/lemon/extra virgin olive oil)
Adrice 2021 Arm-Lifter Nebbiolo Rosé
93 pts.
Aromas of red and blue berries mingle with earth and black tea aromas in this version grown in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Energetic acidity and stony mineral notes uncoil on the creamy mouthfeel, revealing vivid raspberry, white cherry and blueberry flavors. Spice notes perpetuate the finish. $26
Vintner Pairings: Olive tapenade on crostini bread; risotto with mushrooms; fried pork cutlets Milanese
Martinez & Martinez 2020 May Mae Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon
92 pts.
Rich and filled with balanced character, this evokes fruit-driven aromas and flavors of ripe red cherry, fresh-picked strawberry and floral honeysuckle. A backbone of crushed rock and zesty lime forge along the crisp-cut finish. Estate-grown in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. $23
Vintner Pairings: Shrimp and crab ceviche in summertime
Left Bank Bordeaux
» Cabernet Sauvignon leads with finesse and power in these Bordeaux-style reds
Browne Family Vineyards 2019 Bitner Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
93 pts.
A solid, muscular style packed into a plump frame harnessing concentrated flavors of blackberry, black currant and baker’s chocolate that glide with steady movement through a mesh of firm tannins filled in by tobacco and worn cedar notes. $35
Vintner Pairings: Grilled portobello mushroom burgers; duck confit, grilled pork ribs
Mercer Estates 2018 Small Lot Cabernet Sauvignon
94 pts.
Suave and supple in texture, offering red berry and blackberry preserves that saturate the palate, filled in with graphite, loam and flinty matchstick aspects. Evolves slowly, rendering coffee and chocolate nib hints toward the finish, buoyed by fine integrated tannins and dried currant accents on the long aftertaste. $32
Vintner Pairings: Flame-grilled ribeye steak
Sol Stone 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
95 pts.
Remarkably structured, this is a serious effort sourced from Dionysus and Weinbau vineyards. Packs immense black cherry, cassis and plum paste inlaid with dried savory herbs, worn oak and loamy notes that show lateral movement within a framework of cultivated yet firm tannins. Long lasting and satisfying on all fronts. $48
Vintner Pairings: Salt-roasted beet salad with toasted walnuts and roasted shallot dressing
Cadence 2018 Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard
95 pts.
The hallmark of this red wine is the elongated structure, elevating the distinctive core of black olive, blackberry, dark cherry and red currants layered with graphite, loam and dried herbs. Satiny tannins and mineral spice accents extend the pillowy finish. Well-proportioned and balanced across the board. $60
Vintner Pairings: Lamb meatballs with a little bacon, thyme and sage and food processor pulsed leeks
Right Bank Bordeaux
» Suave and sophisticated blends, proving Merlot will forever be among the reigning champions of Bordeaux
Tipsy Canyon 2019 Melange Noir
94 pts.
Merlot is the leading component in this ultra-smooth blend of all five Bordeaux varieties. Woodsy blackberry aromas mingle with dried herbs and dark chocolate, complemented by open-textured flavors of juicy red plum, tobacco, sage and spice. Finishes long, with serious bravado. $49
Vintner Pairings: Marinated flank steak salad with creamy balsamic dressing and crumbled blue cheese
Golden Ridge Cellars 2017 Estate Merlot
94 pts.
Bold and concentrated, exuding black cherry, dried fig and plum flavors matching up to earthy expressions of tobacco and loam, backed by cacao nib and vanilla bean. The powerful structure is bolstered by chiseled tannins that hold their form interminably on the juicy, yet dry finish. $40
Vintner Pairings: Ribeye steak with grilled asparagus marinated in balsamic vinaigrette
Upchurch Vineyard 2019 Counterpart
95 pts.
Shows exceptional focus and length, offering chiseled structure and a backstop of chewy tannins. Concentrated blackberry and an array of dried currants dominate, with buried rock and espresso notes highlighted by tobacco and clove. $50
Vintner Pairings: Fried calamari; grilled meats and BBQ sauce that aren’t overly sweet; brown sugar-glazed bacon
EFESTE 2018 Estate Upright Merlot
94 pts.
Evocative, offering poise and stature, with sultry expressions of scorched earth, eucalyptus and iron notes interwoven with a broad spectrum of cherry, black currant, bittersweet chocolate and tobacco leaf. Sleek acidity wraps around the polished tannins on the umami finish with lasting structure. $50
Vintner Pairings: Steak or chicken fajitas with fresh summer grilled veggies; thin crust wood-fired pepperoni pizza
The “Other” Cabernet (Franc)
» The forbearer grape to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc evokes flowers, berries and spice
Tinte Cellars 2018 Cabernet Franc
93 pts.
Sourced from Dineen Vineyard and Weinbau Vineyard this red exhibits notable structure, elevated with firm tannins and sculpted acidity. Saturated blackberry, raspberry and dried cherry flavors are imbued with tobacco, crushed pebble and herbaceous accents that percolate on the taut finish. $40
Vintner Pairings: Carne asada with grilled peppers and onions; BBQ tri-tip or portobello mushrooms
Category 5 Cellars Rattlesnake Hills AVA 2018 Cabernet Franc
93 pts.
A focused blend of grapes sourced from a cooler vineyard site and a warmer site, expressive of wild raspberry, blue plum and blackberry fruit mingled with spice and mineral notes. Backlit with fresh acidity and fine tannins, there’s nice tension that carries through the finish. $38
Vintner Pairings: Goat cheese; Carolina style BBQ pork; grilled sausages and herbed potato salad
Prospice 2018 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc
96 pts.
Harmoniously structured, with aromas of raspberries, dark plum and forest floor. The mouthfeel is opulent, offering velvety layers of earthy-laced spice, black tea, dried herb and mineral notes. Red currant and violet surface on the lavish finish with generous white pepper accents. $50
Vintner Pairings: Grilled ribeye or New York strip with plenty of cracked pepper
Sightglass Cellars 2019 Cabernet Franc
93 pts.
Aromas of espresso, bittersweet chocolate and red fruit carry onto the palate, with a smooth plush mouthfeel that belies the underlying firm structure. There’s a purity to the blackberry and raspberry fruit detailed with worn cedar notes that endure on the sensational finish. $40
Vintner Pairings: Game hen or quail; BBQ pork tenderloin; steak
Zin-fully Delicious
» Zinfandel is a true West Coast tradition with robust, jammy fruit and brambly intrigue
Story Cellars 2017 “The Whale” Columbia Valley Zinfandel
94 pts.
A blend of two distinctive AVAs, Red Mountain and the Columbia Gorge, offering savory details of spice, pink peppercorn, black olive and graphite that meld with a dark fruity profile of black raspberry preserves and plum. Medium tannins align with precise acidity scoring the finish that keeps all the elements in focus. $36
Vintner Pairings: Slow-smoked beef brisket
Port Townsend Vineyards 2019 Horse Heaven Hills Zinfandel
93 pts.
Floral and softly fruity, presenting scents of bright berries and warm baking spice. This red displays firm-footed structure and burnished tannins that corral sage and violet-infused flavors of briar patch, red plum and dried currants. Finishes with length and purity. $37
Vintner Pairings: Rice dolmas; mussels in red curry; grilled sausages and burgers
Two Vintners 2018 StoneTree Vineyard Zinfandel
93 pts.
Bold and complex, packing monolithic jammy dark fruit, mouthcoating tannins and an undertow of energetic acidity. Copious red and black berries lean toward briar patch, peppercorn, and baking spice with dried red currant and black olive hints. $29
Vintner Pairings: Grilled blackened salmon burgers with arugula and spicy aioli with a side of green chili and sweet corn
Siren Song 2017 “Zelda” Zinfandel Wahluke Slope AVA
94 pts.
Rich and complex, offering beguiling aromas of dark berries, pencil shavings and chocolate torte. Flavors of blackberry compote, raspberry jam, baking spice and warm rock accents unite seamlessly with a sheen of fine acidity that gives upward momentum to the lithe structure. $41
Vintner Pairings: Juicy porterhouse steak; rosemary garlic leg of lamb; chocolate torte