Recipes from Woodinville wine country chef Russell Dean Lowell, whose reverence for nature’s bounty makes his Bothell restaurant one of the culinary delights of the Pacific Northwest
Recipes by chef Russell Lowell
Written and photographed by John Vitale
“HEY, the halibut is here!” exclaims chef Russell Dean Lowell. Ice crystals still cling to the glossy skin of the 12-pound, Alaskan-caught halibut as Russell stoops low, using both hands to hoist the fresh fish from the container. The shipment had just arrived at Russell’s Restaurant & Loft in Bothell. Working quickly, the veteran chef pulls two more halibut from the bed of packed ice. The catch will be gone within hours after being hand-cut into thick fillets for patrons later today. Some of the fish/ice residue melted on the lawn where we stood outside the restaurant. “I like unpacking the fish out here, and then the grass gets fertilized, the trees are fertilized, though mainly it’s all crushed ice. It’s beautiful,” whispers Russell, showing his awe and respect of nature’s true bounty.
It’s late April and the commercial fishing season in Alaska has been underway for a few weeks. Yet Russell’s enthusiasm for the season is unwavering. “The anticipation of the fish getting here always gets me excited. When any kind of fish comes in to the restaurant, I get real pumped up. Especially the big Kings, or any kind of salmon,” he says. He speaks with the reverent tone of a hunter—one who walks the walk.
Russell is a devout outdoorsman. World-traveled angler. Skilled game hunter. Clever storyteller and author. He’s known locally for the winemakers’ dinner series he’s hosted over the years. Russell insists on serving only fresh selections of prime meat and seafood hand-cut by himself or his expert staff. This is a contrast to the fast-food world where pre-cut, shrink-wrapped portions have become the norm for many restaurants.
Russell’s Restaurant has carved out a strong niche in Bothell, Woodinville, Kirkland, Bellevue and beyond. Patrons trust Russell for his preparation of classic fare that never fails to deliver, such as his signature mouthwatering filet mignon, rack of lamb, halibut, salmon and New Bedford sea scallops.
The extensive wine menu highlights numerous Washington wineries. And the house red wine “Code-Breaker” recently scored 92 pts. by Washington Tasting Room Magazine.
Once a personal celebrity chef, Russell has been running his own show for the past 18 years. He claims he is happiest working in the kitchen of the restaurant harvesting proteins. But friends and co-workers know that when the chef goes MIA, he is more than likely in his other happy place—hiking around the wilderness with a rod and reel in hand, ready to lure in a big catch on a stream, river or distant ocean.
Featured Recipes courtesy of Russell’s Restaurant
Signature recipes courtesy of Chef Russell Dean Lowell of Russell’s Restaurant in Bothell:
Pan-Seared Halibut
Fresh, wild-caught Alaskan halibut is preferable. Avoid overcooking. Pair with a nice white wine or Rosé.
Season the halibut fillets lightly on one side with salt and pepper. Set on plate seasoning side up.
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Preheat skillet before adding oil. Heat one tablespoon of 50/50 olive oil/canola oil on medium high temperature.
3. Place fish in skillet, season side down. Sear until golden brown, use tongs to check.
4. Transfer skillet to oven and bake 10-12 minutes.
TIP: When the fish turns from translucent to white it is finished. Be sure not to over cook.
GARNISH: Apply desired sauce or garnish, such as compound butter, raspberry vinaigrette, or plain butter and lemon juice.
Roasted Rack of Lamb
In this recipe, the lamb rack is cut in half so it fits into a skillet. Russell’s Restaurant serves this dish with housemade demi glace, but you may substitute with traditional mint jelly or a chimichurri sauce. Pair with a robust red wine or Syrah.
Ingredients:
Domestic rack of lamb, cut in half
Salt & pepper for seasoning
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Season lamb generously on all sides with desired seasoning (or Russell’s Original Seasoning).
3. Heat a large oven-proof skillet to medium-high before adding oil. Add both lamb pieces, fat-side down. Sear until golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes, check with tongs.
4. Turn over and transfer the skillet to the oven. Cook about 15-20 minutes or until the lamb registers 125-130 degrees on an instant-read thermometer for medium rare (or higher temperature for more well done).
Pan-Seared Sea Scallops
At Russell’s Restaurant, they serve the scallops with beurre blanc and chive oil, the simpler the sauce the better.
Ingredients:
New Bedford Sea Scallops or a size close to U10 count (meaning, under 10 to make one pound), patted dry
Sea salt & a dash of paprika for seasoning
1. In a saute pan heat a 50/50 blend of canola and olive oil to medium-high heat
2. Season scallops lightly before placing in the pan. Place scallop in pan season side down.
3. Do not shake the pan or try to move the scallop. Scallop will release from the pan when ready to turn (1-2 minutes).
4. Season second side. Then turn and repeat, this time cooking only for one minute.
Serve immediately.