Reviews of Washington-grown Italian varietals that rival their European counterparts and pair delightfully with your favorite Italian-American dishes.
Ahh, we toast “the sweet life” filled with friendships and comfort food shared around the table with Italian varietals grown in Washington. We review red and white wines irresistibly paired with food tips courtesy of each vintner. ~Cin Cin!
Washington-Grown: Super Tuscans
» A nucleus of bright Sangiovese with a splash of other red grapes for extra oomph!
Chandler Reach Vineyards 2017 Yakima Valley Villa Rosso
93 pts.
This smooth, rich red is primarily Sangiovese fortified with Cabernet and Merlot. Features swooning dark berry, red currant and cherry layered with accents of mineral, earth, spice and cola. Fine dusty tannins backlit by fresh acidity create nice synergy on the medium-bodied finish. $30
Vintner Pairings: Bucatini pasta with Bolognese sauce; pizza with red sauce, Italian sausage, porcini mushroom and red onion
Tsillan Cellars 2019 Estate Bella Vigna
94 pts.
This supple and full-bodied Lake Chelan AVA red is unadulterated, with taut, polished tannins and a sheen of bright acidity enshrined by flavors of red cherry, blackberry, minerality, spice and hints of French vanilla. All the elements converge on the succulent finish, making a lasting impression. $34
Vintner Pairings: Herby, spicy meats and mushrooms and tomato-based Italian pasta dishes, like lasagna
Brian Carter Cellars 2017 Tuttorosso
93 pts.
This Super Tuscan style red wine is firm and concentrated, with juicy blackberry, cherry and wild roses backed by a savory mix of bay leaf, dried thyme and earthiness. Lively white pepper accents and Chianti-like tension give terrific balance and length to the finish. $34
Vintner Pairings: Tomato-based dishes like pasta or pizza topped with slow roasted tomatoes; salmon
Callan Cellars 2019 Elephant Mountain Vineyards Sangiovese
93 pts.
Framed by suave acidity matched with sleek tannins, this red has a tiny amount of Cabernet and Cabernet Franc. Exhibits harmonious depth to the cherry, blackberry and currant flavors that merge with crushed pebbles, dried herbs and ground white pepper notes. Shows poise and refinement. $36
Vintner Pairings: Pappardelle pasta with Bolognese
Washington-Grown: Dolcetto and Nebbiolo (Barolo)
» Possessing near-hypnotic power, these varietals originated from Italy’s Piedmont region
Maryhill Winery 2018 Painted Hills Vineyard Dolcetto
94 pts.
An elegant, medium-bodied red with finely meshed tannins and fresh acidity framed with black cherry, licorice, wet stone and subtle cinnamon notes. Juicy red currant and spice details are revealed on the long, balanced finish. $54
Vintner Pairings: Braised rosemary lamb and mushroom ragu over polenta; grilled duck or squab with charred tomatoes and roasted baby onions
ICON by Waterbrook 2018 Columbia Valley Dolcetto
93 pts.
Fresh and energetic, brimming with earthy plum, cherry and licorice flavors deftly layered with mocha coffee, dried red fruit and white pepper. Gallantly structured, finishing with a zesty edge backlit by fine tannins that keep all the elements in focus. $40
Vintner Pairings: Hot Italian sausages prepared with onions, peppers and tomatoes; ravioli; steamer clams
Côtes de Ciel 2013 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Nebbiolo
96 pts.
Packed with sensational cherry, sweet red currant and dried strawberry flavors that all fall into the right place. Delivers remarkable freshness, backed with chewy tannins that broaden out on the finish, with tobacco and mineral notes taking a supportive role. $50
Vintner Pairings: Pasta Bolognese; osso buco with Milanese risotto; prime rib and roasted veggies; black truffle carbonara
Beaumont Cellars 2019 Nebbiolo
93 pts.
Outstanding depth and purity, leading with concentrated wild strawberry, bright cherry, black licorice and cocoa flavors. The appealing finish is focused and structured, backlit with a spectrum of sagebrush, dried herbs and white pepper accents that weave through fine tannins. $38
Vintner Pairings: Marinara pork Parmesan; meaty lasagna
Washington-Grown: Aglianico and Primitivo
» Rustic and powerful, these varietals originated from Italy’s Puglia and Campania regions
Coyote Canyon Winery 2018 Primitivo
92 pts.
Bold and full-bodied, with distinctive sweet spice threaded through rich flavors of black cherry, dried plum and succulent red berries. Ends with a high-toned touch to the generous fruit, with fig and French vanilla accents that emerge on the robust finish. $33
Vintner Pairings: Lamb curry; eggplant Parmesan; pasta puttanesca; grilled veggies
Leonetti Cellar 2014 Walla Walla Valley Aglianico
97 pts.
Aged 44 months in primarily clay amphora lets the fruit shine, with aromas of black raspberry, tar and rose blossom. There’s noble structure from the powerful-yet-regal tannins and age-softened acidity. Ends fresh, with reticent notes of cassis on the drawn-out finish. $90
Vintner Pairings: Braised dishes like oxtail; osso buco or lamb shanks; spicy sausages; rich meat ragu; taleggio or pecorino
Bartholomew Winery 2018 Aglianico
93 pts.
Dense and rich, with iron-reinforced flavors of macerated dark cherry, damson plum sauce and orange bitters that come together with intriguing notes of black tea leaf, sage and allspice. Chalky tannins and balanced acidity give this a large presence on the finish. $39
Vintner Pairings: Steak; lamb; mushroom risotto
The Bunnell Family Cellar Wine o’Clock 2018 Aglianico
92 pts.
Densely structured and robust, with chewy tannins complemented by tarry-edged minerality that set the stage for the black cherry and plum skin flavors. A tier of purple flowers, peppercorn, balsamic and wild game notes persist on the aftertaste. $34
Vintner Pairings: Italian-style “Eggs in Purgatory” with Rancho Gordo lima beans and crusty bread for dipping
Washington-Grown: Pinot Gris
» Personality-filled, fruity white wines born for spring and summer dishes
Jacob Williams 2020 Pinot Gris
92 pts.
Marked by snappy lime zest combined with floral honeysuckle and lingering minerality, this refreshing white comes from the noted Underwood Mountain in the Columbia Gorge AVA. Vibrant on the palate, with pure notes of pear, apple and Tuscan melon that complement the basalt-driven finish. $24
Vintner Pairings: Seared scallops with lemon butter sauce; orzo risotto with herbed tiger prawns
Rolling Bay Winery 2020 Pinot Gris
92 pts.
Handpicked from the top of Snipes Mountain and aged six months on the lees, this elegant version is well rounded, displaying aromas and flavors of honeycrisp apple, pear and melon corralled by citrus notes of lemon and lime blossom. Mineral and gentle lees resonate on the finish. $19
Vintner Pairings: White meat with cream or lemon sauce; spicy Asian; seafood; assorted cheeses
WineGirl Wines 2020 Lady of the Lake Pinot Gris
93 pts.
Finessed and notably structured, this single-vineyard Lake Chelan AVA white shows expressive layers of citrus, pineapple, mango, honey and almond extract notes. The mouthfeel is ultra-creamy and rounded, finishing with concentrated depth and quite lengthy aftertaste. $30
Vintner Pairings: Pappardelle pasta with Cajun garlic shrimp
Latah Creek 2020 DenHoed Vineyard Pinot Gris
91 pts.
Expressive, perfumed with aromas of passion fruit, pink grapefruit and key lime. Slightly creamy and off dry, this white shows good intensity with a range of papaya, golden kiwi and green apple flavors that linger on the crisp, juicy finish. $12
Vintner Pairings: Lemon and white wine pasta with artichoke hearts, peas and grilled asparagus topped with arugula
Washington-Grown: Barbera
» A spear of zingy acidity adds bling to this food-friendly red varietal
Hard Row to Hoe 2018 Barbera
94 pts.
Dazzling bright cherry, tart strawberry and blackberry flavors fall in step with perfumed violet, anise, warm spice, leather and earthen notes. Flashes of vivid acidity streak through a matrix of finely-knit tannins, running a lengthy course on the sumptuous finish. $50
Vintner Pairings: Italian dishes with red sauce and topped with Parmesan cheese
Woodward Canyon Estate 2019 Barbera Walla Walla Valley
92 pts.
Rich and fresh, packed with bright cherry flavors accented by violet and wild blackberry that flow through the velvet-like texture. Grippy tannins matched with vivid acidity form a nice backbone on the structured finish, graced with light herbal notes of eucalyptus and clove. $32
Vintner Pairings: Pizza, wild game and Greek food
Page Cellars 2017 James Henry Barbera
93 pts.
Rich, complex and herbaceous, laced with blackberry, steeped plum and cherry flavors mingled with juniper, menthol, crushed rock and dark cocoa. Woodsy notes combine with plush tannins on the firm, spice-infused finish. $45
Vintner Pairings: Italian-herbed meatballs; mushroom risotto with butter, garlic and sausage; herbed braised leg of lamb; pasta puttanesca
Usurious Wines 2017 Barbera
93 pts.
Distinctly earthy and smoky on the nose, accompanied by aromas of blackberry and eucalyptus followed up on the palate with tart cherry, menthol, vanilla and fruit cake accents. Tightens up with a muscular spine of vibrant acidity and bold tannins that reverberate on the spice-laden finish. $65
Vintner Pairings: Italian bistecca steak and lighter classics such as chicken Parmesan or pasta