Reviews of 28 wines from seven different Washington American Viticultural Areas (AVAs)
Editor’s note: AVAs are presented in order of newest to oldest
Royal Slope AVA, Established 2020
As the story goes, this AVA was named when a pair of Scotsmen climbed the nearby Saddle Mountains in the early 1900s and proclaimed, “Now that’s a Royal slope!”
Quick Facts:
• 156,389 acres in size
• More than 70 wineries use Royal Slope grapes
• Earliest vines: circa 1980
Gard Vintners 2018 Pinot Noir
94 pts.
Made from four Pinot Noir clones, this evokes incredible brooding earthiness from black olive, tar, sandalwood, black raspberry, dried cranberry and bits of orange peel. Saline minerality pushes through the lengthy finish with focus and structure. $45
What makes this AVA Unique? Matías Kúsulas, head viticulturist: “Large diurnal shift, unique volcanic bedrock, soil composition and rainfall.”
Matthews Winery 2019 Royal Slope Cuvée
95 pts.
Enticing, with earthen aromas of mesquite, mocha and dark berries. Pure and ethereal in structure, guided by fresh acidity overlaid with cassis and red plum, supported by blueberry and boysenberry. Open-textured and savory, punctuated by mineral, chalk, spice and persistent sweet tannins. $65
What makes this AVA Unique? Bryan Otis, proprietor: “The varied elevation creates ideal conditions for all varietals grown within the AVA.”
Wines of Substance 2018 Stoneridge Cabernet Sauvignon
94 pts.
Well-sculpted with notable structure, framed with a core of cassis, blackberry and cherry layered with black licorice, tobacco and crushed rock details. Steadfast tannins are lined with spice and herbaceous hints. $45
What makes this AVA Unique? Brennon Leighton, vice president of winemaking: “Cooler climate, later seasons, and soil varieties lead to depth of flavor and make Royal slope a Washington gem.”
Pondera Winery 2018 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Stiletto
94 pts.
Energetic structure drives this dense red, fronted with deep black cherry, blackberry and cassis intertwined with dried fig, violet and dark chocolate hints. Dense and firm, with an oak component that adds weight to the finish, evolving with mineral and spice. $42
What makes this AVA Unique? Shane Howard, winemaker: “Hot days, cool nights, great color, flavor, and acidity.”
Lake Chelan AVA, Established 2009
Most of the grapes are allotted to approximately 30 wineries and tasting rooms located along the banks of Lake Chelan, named after a Native American word for “deep water.”
Quick Facts:
• 24,114 acres
• Pinot Noir, Syrah & Chardonnay are popular
Nefarious Cellars 2020 Estate Syrah Defiance Vineyard
93 pts.
Alluring aromas of baking spice, violet and dark fruit segues to compact flavors of cherry and plum with dried red and black currants. Black pepper and clove notes pick up the pace on the rapturous finish, cloaked in velvety tannins and pillowy structure. $42
What makes this AVA Unique? Dean Neff, winemaker: “The Lake Effect moderates our growing season allowing opportunity for nuanced flavor characteristics to develop.”
Tsillan Cellars 2019 Estate Piccolo Rosso
93 pts.
Well-polished tannins give a powerful edge to the silky-smooth texture, flowing with crushed raspberry, tart cherry and briary blackberry expressions. Baking spice, tea leaf and crushed pebbles fill in the finish with persistent spice details. Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon $42
What makes this AVA Unique? Dr. Bob Jankelson, founder: “Nature’s gift to Washington viticulture—where vineyards smile in the sun.”
Radiance Winery 2018 Reserve Chardonnay
93 pts.
Barrel aged for 34 months in French oak, this creamy version is ultra-refined and full flavored. The balanced profile delivers pineapple, Tuscan melon, vanilla bean and woodsy butterscotch that extend deep on the finish, accented with light toast. $44
What makes this AVA Unique? Jeff Crowley, owner/winemaker: “Ideal temperatures moderated by the pristine deep waters of Lake Chelan.”
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards 2018 Estate Malbec
93 pts.
Velvety, with a cornerstone of glacial minerality supported by robust tannins. Steeped black fruit, dark plum and licorice are accented by peppercorn, rose petal, sage and forest floor. $40
What makes this AVA Unique? Judy Phelps, owner/winemaker: “Freshness, natural acidity, high elevation vineyards, stunning landscapes, short growing season, later ripening.”
Horse Heaven Hills, Established 2005
Home to over one-fourth of the state’s vineyards, a constant barrage of winds blowing from the Columbia River helps protect vines from frost and freezes.
Quick Facts:
• 576,603 acres
• Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah make up a large percentage of plantings
Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2017 Limited Edition Syrah
93 pts.
There’s a backbone of tannic complexity to this reserve red. Concentrated boysenberry and juicy black currant flavors saturate the palate with powerful structure, finishing with hints of mocha and warm cedar. $42
What makes this AVA Unique? Haydn Mouat, winemaker: “The AVA provides us with long, dry summers for full ripening and flavor development.”
Maryhill 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon McKinley Springs Vineyard
94 pts.
Made from free-run juice, conveying lustrous structure backed by chewy tannins. Long lasting flavors of black cherry and cassis are inlaid with fig, cocoa, cedar, black olive and dried herbs. $56
What makes this AVA Unique? Craig Leuthold, owner: “We love the depth and complexity of the wines made from Horse Heaven Hills grapes.”
Thurston Wolfe 2020 “The Teacher” Cabernet Sauvignon
91 pts.
Bold and assertive, this version was blended from select vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, profiling macerated black cherry and cassis flavors wrapped around clove and oak barrel spice. Ends with a robust finish that carries long with firm tannins. $27.50
What makes this AVA Unique? Wade Wolfe, owner/winemaker: “The best quality AVA for Cabernet Sauvignon.”
Mercer Estates 2018 Reserve Syrah
93 pts.
This radiates with solid structure, reinforced with crushed rock and zesty minerality. Sourced from Spice Cabinet Vineyard, there’s a beam of dark boysenberry and fig jam that defines the lush palate, layered with fresh acidity, forest floor and toffee. Ends rich, long and satisfying. $42
What makes this AVA Unique? Rob Mercer, owner: “It consistently produces phenomenal wine grapes over thousands of acres.”
Columbia Gorge AVA, Established 2004
A unique terrain where Pacific Ocean breezes collide with warm desert air. The AVA is shared with Oregon, with one-third in Washington state.
Quick Facts:
• 186,610 acres
• Elevation runs from sea level to 2,000 feet, impacting vineyards differently with varied climate zones
Jacob Williams Winery 2021
Pinot Gris
92 pts.
Copiously aromatic, this single-vineyard white offers an array of white flowers, Tuscan melon, Bosc pear and honey notes. Sleek and polished on the palate, trimmed with refreshing acidity, basalt minerality and earthen hints. $26
What makes this AVA Unique? Regina Busse, general manager: “Gorge wines express a sense of place. We highlight diversity in grapes, soil and climate in every drop.”
Savage Grace 2019
Oak Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir
93 pts.
Fleshy and well spiced, with crunchy acidity and minerally-intoned flavors of cherry, dried cranberry and leather accented with cardamon, white pepper and flinty slate. Notes of ocean spray aerate the polished and expressive finish. $44
What makes this AVA Unique? Michael Savage, owner/vintner: “A spectacular AVA to grow cool climate, high elevation wines that are expressive in minerality.”
Tranche Cellars 2018 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay
94 pts.
Complex and rich, displaying vibrant fruit of peach and pear crowned with a halo of white flowers, melon, hazelnut, and Meyer lemon in reserve. Ends with deepening minerality that contributes to the exciting texture. $45
What makes this AVA Unique? Cameron Parry, Tranche director of winemaking: “Its constant winds, moderate temperatures and unique geology yield fresh, focused wines.”
Tetrahedron 2018 Sauter Vineyard Merlot
93 pts.
Elegant, with outstanding structure and polished tannins, delivering an expansive palate of huckleberry, dried plum and currants that combine with restrained chocolate torte, caramel and hints of non-sweetened coconut. Soft peppercorn spice surfaces
on the silky finish, offering loads of charm. $40
What makes this AVA Unique? Kelly Johnson, winemaker: “A world of wines in one region.”
Red Mountain AVA, Established 2001
Rising above Benton City, it is generally the warmest appellation, and one reason why Bordeaux red varietals are strong performers.
Quick Facts:
• 4,538 acres
• 75 percent of the grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon
• Earliest vines planted in 1975
DeLille Cellars 2019 Chaleur Estate
96 pts.
Striking, with a tightly-coiled structure and ultra-fine tannins. Aromas of ripe blackberry, cassis and graphite are accented by red fruit, graphite, cocoa and bay leaf. Stony minerality, dusty loam and spice linger on the persistent finish. $90
What makes this AVA Unique? Jason Gorski, director of winemaking & viticulture: “It produces intense, structured wines while retaining balance and elegance.”
Force Majeure 2019 Estate Syrah
95 pts.
A flawless version, exhibiting chiseled structure packed with steeped black and blue fruit, dark currants and crushed granite. Coffee grinds, cured meat, flowers and black pepper notes permeate the finish with a multi-spectrum effect that continues to evolve in the glass. $85
What makes this AVA Unique? Paul McBride, owner: “Offering wines with both power and elegance, that age effortlessly for decades.”
Kiona Vineyards 2018 Estate Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
94 pts.
Graceful in structure, with pillowy tannins and concentrated flavors of cassis, plump blackberry, violet and pencil shavings that mingle with espresso and loam notes. Finishes with a winning combination of power and finesse on a par well above the price point. $32
What makes this AVA Unique? JJ Williams, general manager: “It’s home!”
2019 Canvasback Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
94 pts.
Harmoniously balanced with an expressive beam of red and black fruit, set against complementary black currant, anise, sweet baking spice and tobacco accents. Polished yet firm tannins play an expanded role on the notably plush and lengthy finish. $44
What makes this AVA Unique? Brian Rudin, winemaker: “Bold, rich, and age-worthy Cabernet, with ripe red and black fruits.”
Walla Walla Valley, Established 1984
The appellation crosses into Oregon, although most of the grapes harvested on the Oregon side are brought back and vinified by Washington wineries.
Quick Facts:
• 319,427 acres
• The area is a draw for winemakers around the country and the world
PÁŠXA 2019 River Rock Vineyard Syrah
97 pts.
This continues to evolve in the glass, leading with aromas of blood orange, spring flowers, dark berries, grilled meat and olive brine. The umami-driven palate is chiseled with iron, mineral and fresh-lit acidity, backed by copious blueberry, savory game, wakame and mulberry spice. Decant well. $85
What makes this AVA Unique? Kathryn Padberg, director of retail sales: “The Walls/PÁŠxa celebrates the roots of the Walla Walla Valley.”
Castillo de Feliciana 2014 Tempranillo Reserve
94 pts.
Derived from four different Walla Walla Valley vineyards, with brooding aromas of blackfruit, peppercorn and tar. Svelte dusty tannins surge with dense flavors of cassis, blackberry and black plum, with a touch of cocoa and smoky spice on the concentrated finish. $59
What makes this AVA Unique? Chris Castillo, winemaker: “Multiple microclimates, myriad’s of soil types, all within 500 square miles.”
L’Ecole Nº 41 2018 Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard
95 pts.
This Cabernet-driven blend uses all five major Bordeaux varietals. There’s a fluidity that binds the elegant structure, supported by silky tannins. Pure flavors of raspberry, cherry and blackberry emanate through the well-defined finish. $57
What makes this AVA Unique? Marty Clubb, owner and managing winemaker: “Camaraderie combined with diverse terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking styles.”
Reininger 2019 Walla Walla Valley Merlot
93 pts.
Aromas of dark fruit, violet, roasted coffee and barrel spice lead to a high-toned palate of red and black currants, backed with red plum and black cherry flavors backlit by smoky spice and moist earth notes. $37
What makes this AVA Unique? Chuck Reininger, winemaker: “An incredible confluence of desire, innovation, collaboration, conviviality, geology, viticulture, winemaking and climate.”
Yakima Valley AVA, Established 1983
This is the state’s oldest AVA, which produces more than one quarter of Washington’s wine grapes, with 18,580 acres of vineyards planted to date.
Quick Facts:
• 708,710 acres
• With a broad range of microclimates, both red and white varietals thrive equally
J Bell Cellars 2016 Sunridge 50/50 Blend
94 pts.
Aged three years in barrel, this 50/50 blend of Cab and Merlot delivers a rich and opulent mouthfeel, powerfully textured and studded with leather, graphite, blackberry compote and cherry. Hints of strawberry jam, tar and graham carry long on the striking finish. $90
What makes this AVA Unique? Wes Teslo, owner/winemaker: “The well-rounded, bold flavors of the high desert started our roots.”
Portteus 2018 Reserve Cabernet Franc
94 pts.
Impeccably crafted from old vines planted in 1988. The structure is a standout, framed with velvety tannins and coaxing flavors of blueberry, blackberry and raspberry. Expressive notes of anise, pencil shavings, tobacco and volcanic loam add duration to the finish. $60
What makes this AVA Unique? Paul Portteus, founder: “The best vineyards have the best views!”
Damsel Cellars 2019 Boushey Vineyard Grenache
93 pts.
Bursting with distinct savory character, multilayered with garrigue strawberry-rhubarb, cherry and huckleberry flavors that retain an expressive juicy quality. Finishes with accents of smoked meat and crushed rock. $38
What makes this AVA Unique? Mari Womack, owner/winemaker: “Yakima Valley has historic vineyards, amazing growers and diverse terroir.”
Dineen Vineyards 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
93 pts.
Richly structured with well-integrated tannins, this packs in a lot of personality. Steeped blackberry, pomegranate, French roast coffee and sandalwood are layered with earthy notes of dried sage, bay leaf and thyme that linger on the finish. $42
What makes this AVA Unique? Marissa Dineen, owner/vintner: “The climate and soils are ideal for growing many varietals well, particularly Bordeaux varietals.”