Raw organic cow’s milk cheeses from Cascadia Creamery capture earthy terroir in every bite of rich, velvety goodness
WHEN John and Marci Shuman founded Cascadia Creamery in the small town of Trout Lake, Wash. they brought back a tradition of artisan cheese making in the shadow of Mt. Adams—part of which was aging cheese in ancient caves.
At the cheesemaking facility they utilize a special aging room built underground inside a natural lava tube cave specifically for this purpose. “Like a fine wine where soil and environment come together to determine the wine’s unique flavor and bouquet, so also are our cheeses,” says cheesemaker John Shuman. “Each one has been kissed by the elements of heritage breeding, volcanic soil, and mountain water.”
The cave-aged advantage
Aging the cheeses in a natural lava tube cave creates an ideal temperature and high humidity profile for handcrafted artisan cheeses, a longtime European tradition. The constant flow of air from the lava tube distributes the earthy smells of the lava cave over the rind of the cheese wheels, imparting wonderful character from the cave’s own family of bacteria, fungi, and molds. Aging the wheels in a cave lends a distinct sense of place to the cheese, in the same way that terroir defines the complex character of certain wines. There are health benefits to boot—the raw milk cheese has probiotics, B vitamins, and lots more goodness than pasturized products.
Not all milk is created equal
For starters, Cascadia Creamery gets it cow’s milk from heritage Jersey, Dutch Belted, and Friesian cows at a certified organic dairy farm. They are fed a diet of mostly meadow grass “naturally fertilized” so to speak by the mineral-rich volcanic soils of Mt. Adams, all of which results in superior quality milk. Secondly, these heritage breeds were selectively bred for their A2 genetics, a trait that produces milk proteins proven to contribute to healthier and more easily digested cheeses than others made from ordinary milk.
Get a taste
Cloud Cap: An aged bloomy rind that is cave aged for 60 to 75 days. The paste is semi-soft with a light texture that’s both buttery and milky to the chew. Elegant grassy notes and citrusy details gain mushroom and loam flavors toward the rind.
PAIR Rosé, crisp white and dry Bordeaux-or Rhône varietal reds.
Sawtooth: A washed rind cheese cave aged for 60 to 75 days. Mildly funk-a-licious in a good way, with light fruity, peaty and mineral notes from the washed rind. The interior is buttery smooth with a semi-soft texture.
PAIR Dry Rhône-style whites like Grenache Blanc or Roussanne, earthy reds like Mourvèdre or Syrah, and crisp Rosé.
Glacier Blue: This natural rind blue is cave aged for 75 days. A friendly style of blue imbued with a rich, saline character that doesn’t bite. The paste is almost fudge-like in texture. Deliciously addictive.
PAIR Sweeter wines like an off-dry Riesling or Port-style reds, and savory reds.
Sleeping Beauty: Made with a natural rind, this is cave aged for 75 to 100 days. Creamy firm, with supple sharpness and nice toothy texture.
PAIR Creamy whites like Chardonnay, or smooth and less tannic reds, like Merlot and Malbec. You can’t err with Rosé.
Find the cheese!
Available at select Northwest grocers and specialty food stores, including Metropolitan Markets, PCC Natural Markets, Whole Foods Markets, Town & Country Markets, Murray’s Cheese Shops within select QFC and Fred Meyer stores, Community Food Co-op, Central Co-op, DeLaurenti, Olympia Food Co-op stores and Haggen Markets. Dig deeper at www.cascadiacreamery.com.