Alfalfa fields and grain silos still rule the land west of Walla Walla, where horses and cows graze the age-old pastures, unaware they share their home with some of the pioneers and trendsetters of Walla Walla’s wine industry along rural Highway 12.
These humble creatures are also blissfully oblivious to history: the Battle of Walla Walla was fought in these parts in 1855. These days, the only battle being waged is for enviable wine scores, and even that’s done politely, and with shared success. Tour the tasting rooms found along this pastoral scenic loop to taste firsthand why the wineries west of Walla Walla are blazing a trail full of 90+ ratings.
Reininger Winery
If you’re starting out from Walla Walla, the first winery on the loop is the family-owned Reininger Winery, approximately five miles west of town.
You’ll taste an alluring lineup of red wines under the Reininger label, including their Walla Walla Valley Merlot and Ash Hollow Vineyard Syrah, and offerings from their second label, Helix (don’t miss the Pomatia and Aspersa blends), all from winemaker Chuck Reininger.
The setting is equally beguiling. The tasting room, production facility and renovated pre-existing potato sheds, are reminiscent of a Martha Stewart urban barn.
Three Rivers Winery
Directly across the highway is Three Rivers Winery. The expansive deck overlooks a three-hole golf course that can be played for free, with views of Mill Creek, horse pastures, the estate vineyard and the Blue Mountains beyond.
On cooler spring days, curl up on the comfy leather sofa by the fire with a glass of Minnick Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon or the Grenache (two of a handful of wines only available in the tasting room). With its rich woodwork, exposed timber trusses, a gleaming granite tasting bar and tasteful chandeliers, you’ll feel like a guest in a resort.
Winemaker Holly Turner is literally and metaphorically bringing some rock and roll to the brand. She’s introduced some edgy varietals to the already deep portfolio, including a tasty Tempranillo and Malbec.
Recently, Turner’s wines attracted the attention of heavy-metal rocker, Jeff Tate of Queensryche, and together they produced “Insania,” a flashy, red Bordeaux blend with it’s own hip packaging.
Cougar Crest Estate Winery
Head west another mile and a half along the Highway 12 loop and you’ll see Cougar Crest Estate Winery. Its handsome tasting room has prairie-style square windows finished in an earthy color reminiscent of Southwest adobes.
The interior is a stylish contrast of contemporary elements surrounded by warm woodwork, and the large open space sets the stage for the artwork on display. Local artist Jeffrey Hill created a custom, mixed media mobile that hangs from the high ceiling and his popular abstracted vineyard paintings surround.
As with Three Rivers, you have the chance to sample reserve wines for an additional fee. Try their jammy, spicy Syrah’s and luxurious Cabernet Sauvignon. If you’re feeling active, you can play a round of horseshoes or bocce ball.
Long Shadows Vintners
Known for their ultra-premium wines, Long Shadows is located nearly two miles up Frenchtown Road from Cougar Crest. They are open for tours and tasting by invitation only. Requests for reservations can be made by contacting the winery at least two weeks in advance at (509) 526-0905.
Glencorrie Winery
A half mile further along West Hwy. 12 is Glencorrie Winery, easy to miss but worth the stop. Owners Ronn and Dean Coldiron opened quietly to the public last year but with applause from critics for two Cabernets and their Cuvee Marquis (a Bordeaux blend).
Glencorrie will release their 2007 vintage this spring, including a Merlot.
The gravel road stops at a quintessential red barn, which has been converted to accommodate wine barrels in the former stalls, and a tasting room in what was originally the tack room.
Horses still wander the pastures surrounding the barn, and you may get a glimpse of Syrah, the resident sorrel red and white paint horse.
L’Ecole No. 41
Carry on to Lowden to L’Ecole No 41, housed in what was once a schoolhouse built in 1915 by French-Canadian settlers, said to have once grown grapes and produced wine.
Jean and Baker Ferguson founded L’Ecole in 1983, named with reverence to these early wine pioneers (ecole is French for school and 41 is the district it was in). Today the winery is owned and operated by the Ferguson’s daughter and son-in-law, Megan and Martin Clubb.
Many of the wines sampled in the tasting room differ from those found on grocery store shelves. They pour Walla Walla Valley single-vineyard and single-varietal wines that include the Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot and Luminesce, a winning Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend. Don’t miss the Perigee and Apogee high-end blends and ask about other tasting-room-only wines. L’Ecole has made their library wines available to the public.
Woodward Canyon
When you leave L’Ecole, you can walk a short gravel path to Woodward Canyon next door. Their tasting room is inside a quaint farmhouse. The wines are presented in a quiet but informative manner by tasting room manager, Kellie Berg, from a small tasting bar in an atmosphere devoid of self-importance.
“There’s a major element of surprise when people discover the tasting room,” says General Manager Darcey Fugman-Small, who founded the winery with husband and winemaker Rick Small. “We’re not a chateau.”
But there could be pomp and circumstance. The second oldest winery in the valley, Rick and Darcey started Woodward Canyon in 1981 from essentially an experiment. Rick planted grapes despite skepticism from a long lineage of wheat farmers and turned them into world-class wines.
Rick is also known for his baking—not surprising when winemaking relies on knowledge of and access to great yeast strains and successful fermentation. You may witness him pulling one of his gourmet pizzas out of the wood-burning oven out back in celebration of one of the staff’s birthdays.
One of the stand-outs in an impressive lineup among their estate Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera, Dolcetto and estate red blend is Woodward Canyon’s Artists Series Cabernet Sauvignon. Started in 1992, the Artists Series supports Northwest artists with a label design and artwork displayed in the tasting room.
Woodward Canyon recently opened their new Reserve Room, a contemporary farmstead structure open by appointment. For a $25 fee, you can taste rare and historic reserve wines, including the old-vines line poured by knowledgeable staff.
Waterbrook
Traveling back on the loop (towards Walla Walla) is the new home for the fourth oldest winery in the valley, Waterbrook, which appears like some sort of mirage. The 5,000 square foot tasting room and adjacent 53,000-square-foot production facility is open until 8pm on Fridays and Saturdays, making it an ideal spot to wrap up the day.
Waterbrook winemaker John Freeman’s approachable and affordable lineup of wines match his easy-going, no-nonsense personality.
Play a round of pétanque (a favorite of many in the wine industry), bocce ball, or catch-and-release fly-fish the small lake built on the property. Afterwards, sink into a cream-colored cushion in oversized teak patio furniture around the outdoor fireplace.
Enjoy gourmet small plates by renowned resident chef Ceil Blaine with a Sangiovese Rosé, Waterbrook’s signature Melange Noir, or one of the suggested wine pairings while watching the landscape recede with the last of spring’s promising light.
Written by Kirsten Telander
Click here to preview the article from the Spring 2010 issue of Tasting Room magazine.