Explore a variety of tasting adventures throughout the small towns of the Yakima Valley, coupled with historic hotel stays, that offer a fresh perspective of the state’s very first appellation
Written and photographed by Pamela and Gary Baker
Wine reviews by the editors of Washington Tasting Room Magazine
EXPLORE a modern day winery trail with a touch of the past in the Yakima Valley—the state’s first and oldest appellation—where eclectic tasting rooms and historic hotels offer rewarding experiences at a slower pace.
Settlers discovered that the Yakima Valley soil was incredibly fertile in the 1860s. They transported water from the Yakima River via irrigation ditches to grow crops. The farming industry grew through the 20th century with abundant orchards, hop fields, and most recently vineyards that spread in every direction over gently rolling hills. A few of the pioneering winemakers and winery owners still have deep roots in the Valley.
On roughly the same latitude as France’s famed Bordeaux region, the Yakima Valley became the state’s first official American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1983. From downtown Yakima to nearby Wapato, and further east to the towns of Zillah and Prosser, more than 100 wineries exist, accounting for the greatest concentration of wineries and vineyards in the state.
Join us on a three-day wine and culinary tour that includes wine tasting, eateries, things to do, and where to base camp along the wine trail from Yakima to Prosser.
Day 1: Basecamp in Yakima
The historic Hotel Maison (“home” in French) is a luxury boutique hotel in downtown Yakima immersed in history. It was originally built in 1911 as a temple for the Yakima Freemasons to provide a distinguished, ceremonial meeting space for their flourishing club. The Freemasons built their temple on the top floor; the lower floors housed commercial and retail places.
Today the building houses the Hotel Maison, offering elegant, modern accommodations. Photographs from the 1900s to 1940s line the hallway on the first floor, commemorating the history of the building and downtown Yakima. The hotel lobby features a contemporary art gallery of paintings by local artists in a partnership with the Larson Gallery at Yakima Valley College.
The hotel sits just steps from downtown cafes and tasting rooms. At six stories tall, this luxury hotel offers a blend of classical architecture and spacious, comfortable rooms with lovely decor. Complimentary continental breakfast is included.
The top floor hall remains intact today with many of the original Freemason architectural elements. Plans are in the works to provide dining, conference, and private event space.
Treveri Cellars in Wapato
Start your tasting itinerary at this family-owned winery in the town of Wapato that exclusively produces sparkling wines, a short drive from downtown Yakima.
Co-owner and chief winemaker Juergen Grieb draws from his European heritage to craft some of the finest sparkling wines in the country using the traditional Methode Champenoise (bottle fermented) technique. Treveri Cellars first captured notoriety when their sparkling wines were served at U.S. State Department receptions in Washington, D.C. in 2011.
“Tasting sparkling wine is easier than tasting still wine, and it pairs so nicely with food,” says Juergen.
Co-owner Julie Grieb says their philosophy has always been, “Come in, sit down and relax. Whether you want to learn something about sparkling wines, or have a little food, or meet a friend—we can accommodate all of those.” Guests admire the beautiful grounds, the view and the food plates.
Wine club members enjoy a newly refurbished Club Lounge on the second floor with an outdoor deck and stunning views of the valley below. The tasting room, designed to look like a Northwest lodge, features open wood beams and attractive stonework.
Treveri Cellars Reserve Brut Prestige, 93 pts.Aged three years, the cepage behind this complex sparkling wine is Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%). Rich and creamy on the entry, showing lovely apple, white raspberry, black currant and ground ginger perfectly aligned to the delicate, fine beads. The elegant finish carries accents of sweet pastry and sliced almond. $30
This is the sparkling wine that launched the brand in 2010 and remains a perennial crowd pleaser. Aromas of brioche, baking spice and citrus introduce lively flavors of crisp green apple, pear and lemon that percolate with zesty mineral notes on the creamy finish. $15
The menu includes scrumptious bites and appetizers like BLT salad skewers, a Mediterranean platter featuring hummus and fresh veggies, and a beautifully stacked charcuterie cone.
Sunday morning brunch is popular. The mimosa flight (perfect with brunch) includes sparkling wine with four different flavors—pineapple, peach, watermelon, and orange passion fruit.
Cocktails at Icehouse
Known as the “Icehouse,” the separate bar room inside the Cowiche Canyon Kitchen restaurant in downtown Yakima offers fifteen different cocktails: nine Icehouse originals and six classics that include a Bobby Burns and a Boulevardier. Delightful bar bites are available and the bartenders are user-friendly.
Dinner at Crafted
Dan and Mollie Koomoo bring culinary excellence to this cafe and bar, one of the city’s most authentic farm-to-fork experiences. Dan scours local farms for fresh produce then builds his frequently changing menu around whatever is in season. An extensive wine list of mostly-Yakima producers accompanies the chef’s curated menu, along with craft cocktails.
Day 2: Wine Touring Wapato & Zillah
Essencia Artisan Bakery & Chocolaterie
This bakery in downtown Yakima fills the craving for Danishes, cinnamon buns, crusty-bread sandwiches and to-go lunch wraps. The blue goat cheese, egg and mushroom croissants are a great start to a day of wine tasting ahead.
Hike Along the Greenway
Enjoy a morning walk or bike ride on the Yakima Greenway, a 20-mile pathway that parallels two rivers, the Yakima and the Naches. Multiple entry points and plentiful parking offer easy visitor access.
J. Bell Cellars in Zillah
Lavender fields greet visitors on the country drive into this winery. Wes Teslo, the owner and winemaker, purchased this former home in 2005 for weekend getaways, then converted it into the tasting room in 2010. Overhead canopies and pear trees shade the courtyard, sprawling with outdoor tables. The expansive property includes a garden setting complete with waterfall and koi pond, giving visitors a reason to stay all afternoon.
J. Bell Cellars produces small lots of single varietals and blends with Yakima Valley grapes. Handcrafted and unfiltered, J Bell produces Old World-inspired but unmistakably Washington wines.
One of the most exciting changes recently includes the addition of a new restaurant onsite, Il Grasso. Owned and operated by Yakima’s own celebrity chef, Shawn Niles, he brings his talent to Yakima’s only outdoor dining room. Known as Yakima’s “Fat Pastor,” Shawn competed in the TV show, Master Chef. He and his team, Chef Gilbert Kalombo and Chef Lara Bodine, run Fat Pastor Productions, which includes multi-faceted culinary operations in the Yakima region.
The menu features dishes inspired by Northwest and Italian farm-to-table flavors. It includes fresh seafood options, as well as wood fired pizza, and choice salads like the chicken Caesar, or arugula with octopus and housemade lemon zest dressing. Guests rave about the herbed focaccia bread, based on a secret recipe.
J. Bell Cellars 2016 Yakima Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 93 pts.Robust, yet highly polished, with a rich core of blackberry, raspberry preserves, blueberry and pomegranate framed with dried sage, oak spice and vanilla hints. Fully integrated tannins and fresh acidity show muscle, but keep an elegant profile through the long, coaxing finish. $65
Brimming with verve, this Grenache from Boushey Vineyard was crushed in whole berry clusters, wild yeast fermented and aged two years on the lees. All this adds to the sheer brilliance behind the unctuous mouthfeel that shines with raspberry and blueberry compote veiled in savory notes of white pepper, bramble and polished rock. Terroir driven on every front. $45
An industrial-strength kitchen is under construction at the rear of the property with plans to add a second and third restaurant onsite over the next year. The current one will remain a courtyard bistro. The second one will be a “laid-back” but high-end Italian restaurant. The third one will also be outside and built where concerts are held on the 2nd and 4th Friday nights.
Sheltered outdoor booths with glass fire pits make this bistro and winery a destination in any weather.
Two Mountain Winery in Zillah
Established in 2002, this family-owned operation is nestled in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA. Brothers Matthew and Patrick Rawn purchased Two Mountain Winery (a reference to Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier) and Estate Vineyard from their late uncle’s estate in 2006. Matt makes the wine and Patrick manages the vineyards.
Since 1951, four generations of farming have rooted this place in Yakima Valley history. Proud farmers and concerned about the environment, the brothers implemented sustainability changes in their vineyard and operational practices. They recently became the first winery in the state to receive Lodi Rules Certification for sustainability.
“We’re about making wines that speak to this place. We lean into the nuances of each vineyard,” says Patrick.
“The quality is within the vineyard,” adds Matt. “The personality of our wines comes from the terroir.”
Two Mountain 2018 Merlot, 91 pts.Rich and balanced, this medium-bodied red boasts brambly fruit flavors of red cherry and black plum neatly layered with cedar box, fig, cocoa powder, brown sugar and hints of dark roasted coffee. Expressive, with fine-grained tannins that roll easily through the long finish. $24
Sophisticated and dry with a crisp edge, this estate-grown white offers intriguing straw, spice and floral notes on the nose that lead to well-cut flavors of pear, Gravenstein apple and verbena with a spine of stony minerality. Aged in 100% stainless steel tanks. $19
The experience here is unpretentious in a laid back environment, perfect for a sunny afternoon of wine tasting. A trip to Two Mountain is a unique chance to visit a farm in wine country with splendid vineyard views. Usually, one of the brothers is on-site in the tasting room, so guests have access to the winemaker and the grower. The winery hosts a variety of events from movie nights to social gatherings as well.
Freehand Cellars in Wapato
The tasting room is a juxtaposition of ultra-modern architecture. Owners Eduardo Oliveira and James Desarno renovated in a way so that sweeping hilltop vistas of the Yakima Valley floor are plentiful from inside the chic tasting room or outside on the trellised patio. Tyra Bleek, tasting room manager, says guests typically head straight for the “Mountain View Lawn” that overlooks Mt. Adams, the second highest peak in the state.
Guests can order a five-wine flight and charcuterie board as part of the tasting experience. The kitchen also offers grilled chicken skewers, a caprese plate, and small stone-fired naan pizzas.
Freehand Cellars 2018 Petit Verdot, 90 pts.Firmly structured with a vibrant underlying acidity, this version exudes a brooding profile filled with cassis, black olive, blackberry, tea leaf and mesquite enveloped by a core of gripping tannins. There’s a youthful energy that carries through on the finish. $25
This Rosé of Pinot Gris shows pretty aromas of dried raspberry and ripe strawberry with expressions of earth and fresh-cut hay. The smooth palate is filled with fruity notes of red berry, cranberry and kiwi, finishing on the dry side with accents of garden herbs and mineral spice. $22
Regular events include a Sunday morning yoga class, a Wednesday evening watercolor class, and a weekend concert series, all of which can be accompanied by a glass of wine.
Tyra says guests comment frequently on the winery’s views, the vibes and vino. “Freehand provides an oasis atmosphere that makes guests feel like they’re on vacation,” she says.
Dine at 2nd Street Grill in Yakima
This bright, stylish social hub in downtown Yakima has a brick and warm wood decor, granite-topped bar, separate booth seating inside for dining and sidewalk seating outside. The Grill offers a menu of classic American food choices, brews and refreshing cocktails with excellent service.
Day 3: Basecamp in Prosser
On the eastern end of the Yakima Valley, The Historic Mercer hotel in quintessential rural downtown Prosser provides four upscale suites. Each one is lovingly decorated with a different theme and stocked with amenities for a comfortable stay. The family-owned hotel was originally built by Willis Mercer in 1906, and is owned and operated by Julie Mercer.
Within its two-story brick, turn-of-the-century mercantile architecture and its lively downtown location on 6th Street, the hotel reflects a colorful past. Over the past 16 years, Julie has beautifully restored the suites with full kitchens, fine beds, and en suite bathrooms, while retaining the original wood floors and stunning eight-foot windows. Guests receive a complimentary bottle of family-owned Mercer Estates wine. The location is superb for a winecation due to its close proximity to many wineries.
Wake up at Brewminatti
Located on the first floor just below The Historic Mercer hotel, this former hardware store is the spot for locally roasted coffee, fresh baked goods, and delicious breakfast sandwiches.
Desert Wind Winery in Prosser
With its suntanned adobe facade, this Southwest inspired winery, owned by two families—Josh and Lisa Lawrence, and Tom and Tami Merkle—is perched on a bluff overlooking the Yakima River. The facility includes an enormous tasting room with a kitchen, well-stocked gift shop, a private events center, and four overnight guest suites inspired by the upscale hotels of Santa Fe.
The winery specializes in producing wines with good aging potential. Their red Bordeaux varietals are grown on 500 acres in the Wahluke Slope AVA while their Portuguese varietals come from the vineyards planted around the winery.
Wine tasting here is intentionally educational and the hospitality crew specialize in providing guests with a unique tasting experience. “We want people to feel like this is their living room,” says tasting room manager Carolyn Knee.
Their “Vineyard to the Glass” is a more elegant, seated presentation where each wine is paired with a small bite to enhance the flavors and aromas of the wine selections. They also offer cooking classes on select Saturday mornings in the spacious dining room. The First Friday’s Sunset Dining with live music, and their Simply Sophisticated Supper Club dinners are popular with guests.
Desert Wind Winery 2017 Wahluke Slope Ruah, 90 pts.Smoothly and pillowy, this estate red is comprised of all six Bordeaux varietals blended with Syrah (28%). Fruit-forward flavors of cherry, dried red currant, mocha, clove and violet meld easily with warm spice notes on the fresh finish. $20
This refined, dry white offers well-cut structure, leading with alluring aromas of orange essence and honeysuckle. Wet stone, white flowers, melon and citrus flavors stream through the creamy mouthfeel with gentle spice notes that add a lasting touch. $24
There is an onsite restaurant that’s open daily—the menu features shareable starters like hand-rolled meatballs and black truffle fondue, as well as a full lunch menu. The outdoor river view patio provides a perfect setting for a leisurely lunch and tasting. Or cozy up during the winter months in front of the tasting room’s toasty fireplace.
Mercer Estates in Prosser
A mile up the road is Mercer Estates. They excel at producing Cabernet Sauvignon, which is their most popular variety, in addition to numerous other red and white wines. All the fruit is estate grown from AVAs that include the Horse Heaven Hills and one of Washington’s newest, the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. About four years ago, general manager Will Mercer and his brother Rob started a new label called Mercer Brothers. And the winery proudly makes its ICAN label, bottled in an environmentally-friendly reusable aluminum can.
The tasting room has a chic, modern look with a gift shop. Guests are seated at comfortable tables where wine flights are presented by knowledgeable staff. Tastings are also available on the patio, overlooking dramatic, water-efficient desert landscaping.
Small-lot, single varietal reds are predominantly the focus of the tasting. Servers describe the characteristics of each wine, its location in the vineyard and the influence the “dusty” terroir has on wines from the Horse Heaven Hills.
Mercer Estates 2018 Reserve Cavalie, 94 pts.Sleek, filled with harmonious complexity centered around silky tannins inlaid with notes of blueberry, dark cherry, black currant, tobacco, graphite and baker’s chocolate. This Bordeaux style red shows impeccable structure and balance that impresses long after the finish. $42
A rich and plush rendition, with generous blackberry cobbler, cherry and dried sage forming the core, backed by red currant and warm spice notes. Finishes long and pure, with ultra-refined tannins in reserve that weave through the balanced structure. $32
“Prosser is not a high traffic area. People buy our wine in a grocery store and like it so much, that they seek us out to taste more of what we make here,” says Will. Several of their small-production wines are only found in the tasting room.
Charcuterie boards and chocolate pairings are available. The winery hosts special events several times a year, including a very popular blending class.
DavenLore Winery in Prosser
Across town, DavenLore is off the beaten path in the foothills of Horse Heaven Hills but worth the drive up its winding, gravel road for the stunning views and casual atmosphere. Owned and operated by soil scientist Joan Davenport and winemaker Gordon Taylor, they specialize in blended red wines. The winery produces wines sourced primarily from Horse Heaven Hills and Snipes Mountain. Wine tasting by the glass is offered both inside and outdoor on the newly extended, shaded gravel patio.
The winery’s logo depicts a petroglyph of a coyote with wine grapes in his belly and subtle images of wine bottles in his legs. The small tasting room is intentionally unassuming and sits right next door to the wine production area. “It’s a working winery,” says Gordon. “We’re not pretentious.”
Visitors stand at the bar, or sit along the back wall, as Gordon casually unpacks glasses and pours tastings. He wittily describes each tasting while simultaneously calling out blending instructions to his staff in the barrel room.
DavenLore 2016 Horse Heaven Hills Durif, 93 pts.This hearty, full-flavored red is inky, dark and bold, with towering structure and chewy tannins that deliver a focused core of macerated blackberry, cassis and roasted coffee notes tinged with cedar shavings. The rich flavors cascade through the finish with interminable duration. $32
This top-notch version is tightly packed, with firmly etched tannins and dense flavors of rich blackberry and red currant layered with olive tapenade, graphite and hints of warm oak spice and vanilla. An underlay of vivid acidity prevails on the gracefully extended finish. $32
Although DavenLore outsources most of its grapes, vineyards are planted on the property as well. Personalized vineyard tours for an up-close examination of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot vines are conducted by Gordon himself. The atmosphere in the tasting room is lively—and if guests happen to be there when the blending takes place, expect to partake in the tasting.
Happy Hour in Prosser
The Horse Heaven Saloon gastro pub offers a slate of locally brewed beers and cocktails. Wagon wheels support the bar and wisteria themed murals dominate the walls.
Dine at Prosser House
The Prosser House, an eatery and bar, is a passion project for chef John Gray and wife, Belem. They transformed the former home of the first mayor of Prosser into the perfect setting for a restaurant. Using local ingredients, the chef creates American-style dishes from assorted burgers, steaks, seafood, and seven different pizza selections.
Keep Exploring Yakima Valley
Yakima Valley Tourism, www.visityakima.com
Tour Prosser, www.tourprosser.com