Valdemar Estates: Road to Rioja & Walla Walla

Valdemar Estates offers a compelling mix of Spanish and New World wines, establishing the first internationally owned, 100% inclusive and accessible winery in the state

A SERENDIPITOUS semester abroad changed the trajectory of one Spanish exchange student’s life—and that of his family’s winery. “Before I joined the winery, I already knew that I wanted to live in Washington, and I was truly in love with this side of the country,” says Jesús Martínez Bujanda, CEO of the Valdemar Family group, which operates Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla, and Bodegas Valdemar headquartered in Rioja, Spain. Named among Wine Enthusiast’s “Top 40 Under 40,” Bujanda represents the fifth generation of wine growers and producers from the Valdemar Family group.

Bujanda fell in love with the Pacific Northwest during a semester abroad at the University of Washington in Seattle. Smitten with the region, he vowed to live there one day.

After graduation, Bujanda worked as a financial auditor at PricewaterhouseCoopers for four years before joining the family winery. In 2014, he assumed its helm as CEO.

First Love

As the family sought expansion beyond Spain, Bujanda suggested Washington State. “The truth is my sister, my father and I came here one time,” he says. “And everybody fell in love with Washington, and Walla Walla in particular.” In 2019, the family founded Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla, marking the first internationally owned winery in the region.

“The Walla Walla Valley is widely recognized [for producing] high-quality wines, and the fact that Valdemar Estates chose this region as the place to plant its roots speaks to that,” says the executive director of Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance, Robert Hansen. “Wine is a global product, and international awareness of the Walla Walla Valley continues to grow, evidenced by Valdemar’s presence in the region. Additionally, their international connection helps continue to put the Walla Walla Valley on the map of international wine enthusiasts.”

Pioneers and Innovators

Founded in 1889, Valdemar pioneered a slew of Spanish wine industry innovations before breaking ground in Washington. These include introduction of the country’s first barrel-fermented white wine, a white Tempranillo, aged Grenache, and recovery of native varieties like Graciano and Maturana.

“We always say that we’re pioneers,” says Bujanda. “That’s something that we are very passionate about—to do something that nobody has done before. We are always trying to do that.”

Valdemar Estates continues this trailblazing heritage beyond the Iberian Peninsula. Three years ago, Valdemar Estates initiated a project with Washington State University, in conjunction with UC Davis, to bring Maturana, an indigenous grape from Rioja, to Walla Walla. “It’s very rare, and very unknown,” says Bujanda. “We are hoping to be able to propagate it, and plant it in our vineyards in 2023 or 2024. And then it’s going to be available to anyone who wants to try it.”

Inclusive and Accessible

This passion for innovation also drives their winery design. Five years ago, Bodegas Valdemar established the first 100% inclusive and accessible winery in Europe. In 2021, Valdemar Estates followed suit, earning acclaim as the only 100% inclusive and accessible winery in the United States.

“We realized that wineries are not really adapted to people with disabilities,” says Bujanda. “People think about disabilities, and they envision somebody in a wheelchair, but what about somebody that is blind, someone that has Down’s syndrome? The key word is not only accessible, but also inclusive, which means that they can do the same tour, they can get the same experience as you or me. They don’t want a special experience for them, they want to do exactly the same thing.”

Creativity continues with culinary offerings at both the Walla Walla and Woodinville tasting rooms. Walla Walla’s full-service restaurant overlooks the panoramic Blue Mountains. Both locations feature authentic Spanish tapas, paired with Walla Walla and Rioja wines.

Open-Minded

The pursuit for adventure extends beyond the winery, too. “We came to Walla Walla because we are very open-minded,” says Bujanda. “We knew some of the things we wanted to achieve, but mostly, we wanted to learn about this region, and then experiment and try,” he says. “And we’re growing grapes every year that we never thought that we were going to try!”

Moreover, they purchased nine acres in The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. The stones resemble those of a vineyard back home. “We suddenly felt a connection with the place,” says Bujanda, “because we could relate to the place that we have in Spain.” The Rocks’ funky flavor profile also attracted them. “Either you like it or you don’t, it is very polarizing,” he says. “It has a very specific taste, a specific terroir.”

Additionally, they purchased 100 acres at North Fork, in the Blue Mountains foothills. The joint venture with Force Majeure winery shares farming, while each winery owns specific blocks. Elevations range between 1,700 to 2,200 feet technically within the Walla Walla AVA, although some 2,000 to 2,200 feet elevations fall outside the boundaries. Many tilt at challenging 20-35 degree slopes. “It is such a beautiful and exciting place that we couldn’t resist it,” admits Bujanda.

Community

Ultimately, Valdemar Estates embodies a commitment. “We were afraid that some people might think that we’re coming here for a few years as investors,” he says. “That’s why we did a winery like the one that we did. Because you look at the winery, and you see a statement. And the statement is, “We’re here for the next five generations, and we are not going anywhere.”

It also fulfills a dream. Today, Bujanda lives in Walla Walla with wife, Conchita, daughter Teresa, and sixth generation son, Jesús. Bujanda’s sister, Ana Martínez Bujanda, serves as COO of Valdemar Family.

“At least fifty percent of the reason we pulled the trigger was the community,” he concludes. “We think that Walla Walla is probably the most exciting in terms of wines, too, but I think the biggest differentiator is the community. The other wineries that you know in any other wine region will be your competitors. Here they were our promoters. They were the ones helping us get established, and that’s just something that is truly amazing.”

Tour & Taste at Valdemar Estates

Visit the winery in Walla Walla or the tasting room in Woodinville
www.valdemarestates.com

3808 Rolling Hills Lane, Walla Walla WA
(509) 956-4926

17409 133rd Ave NE, Unit 115 Woodinville WA
(425) 364-4648

Written by L.M. Archer
Photographed by Colby Kuschatka
Wine Reviews by editor John Vitale