Maryhill Winery is a destination for wine, picnics, music concerts & vistas on the Columbia River.
Set in one of the most photographed areas of the Columbia River Gorge, Maryhill is located on a windswept bluff, surrounded by vineyards and lush cherry, peach, and nectarine orchards. Down below, the Columbia River runs big and wide. A craggy cross section of basalt and granite rises up from across the river, a geological marvel resulting from the Missoula Floods and a constant reminder of why the area’s soils are so rich.
Not only do the surroundings inspire impromptu marriage proposals and a-ha moments, they also create conditions for inspired grapes. “We discovered that this was a really unique growing region because the Columbia River in this area creates a huge heat sink in the winter when the northern express would come in and kill a lot of the grapes in Washington,” says owner Craig Leuthold, indicating the milder conditions that mitigate the risk of a freeze. Leuthold and his wife Vicki opened the winery in 2001.
SOURCING FROM ALL GRAPE REGIONS
With an enormous tasting room, 4,000-plus-seat amphitheater and grounds to talk about, a lesser-known asset of Maryhill is its astounding 23-varietal portfolio including dozens of award-winning wines. In short, Maryhill represents what Washington as a state is capable of producing at a consistently high level.
The winery sources grapes from almost every appellation in the state, and therefore offers the opportunity to learn what differentiates Washington State from the rest of the world—all in one place.
“The only appellation we haven’t been working with is Walla Walla and we are starting to purchase grapes from Les Collines Vineyard,” says Leuthold. “I think the wines that come off that vineyard are some of the best that Washington is capable of producing, so that fills a hole for us in terms of having a representation from virtually all the grape growing regions.”
FLAGSHIP ZIN
Maryhill also stands out by offering as its flagship wine a Zinfandel, a rarity in Washington State.
“We really wanted to differentiate ourselves,” says Leuthold. “I convinced Dan Gunkel (owner of the surrounding Gunkel Vineyards) to sell us five tons of Zinfandel. We entered it in the west coast wine competition in California and ended up winning best of class and runner up as best of show.”
Not a bad start, considering this happened before the winery opened its doors. “And as they say,” Leuthold says laughing, “the rest is history. Zinfandel became an iconic wine for us.”
“You can’t mention Maryhill without mentioning Viognier. It’s a best-seller for us year after year,” says tasting room manager Maureen Lee, “but we’re starting to really get it right with the reds.” That’s putting it modestly. Above the tasting bar sits a substantial lineup of red varietals cloaked in so many medals it appears they may fall over.
In addition to the usual suspects of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah, some of the reds that are hitting their stride include the Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and a Bordeaux blend called Serendipity. All the Proprietor’s Reserves, ranging in price from $18 to $40 are bargains. And don’t miss the Port and Grenache that are only available at the tasting room.
LIVE OUTDOOR MUSIC
With a strong connection to music, Craig and Vicki had the amphitheater in mind from the start. “The property had this great natural bowl for one thing,” recalls Leuthold, “Having a musical venue creates an experience. Sipping our wines and listening to good music is another way to connect to the winery.”
An average of 75,000 people visit the winery each year, many of them lured by the live music.
“The energy out here for the concerts is like none I’ve ever seen,” says Lee. “All the patio spaces are packed with people having fun.”
And not just during the concert series, which draws such acts as Lyle Lovett and Jackson Browne. From Memorial Day through November, the winery hosts free live music on the patio every weekend (see their website).
LOW-KEY, NO HYPE
Inside the expansive tasting room, guests can belly up to a formidable tasting bar from an 1880 Sears and Roebuck catalog built by the Brunswick Company, one of the most asked about features in the room.
Behind the bar, assistant tasting room manager Matt Ayres pours samples. Ayres grew up on a vineyard in The Dalles and is like an unassuming personal Chamber of Commerce for the area. For all the hype, “people are always surprised to find how low-key we are here,” Matt says.
Indeed, a friendly Great Pyrenees named Potter helps set this casual mood. When he’s not entertaining guests in the tasting room, Potter faithfully guards the 85 acres of coveted estate fruit from Gunkel Vineyards that surround the property.
After browsing the rows of tempting merchandise and the deli cases, guests can dine alfresco under the lantern-filled arbor and are encouraged to grab clusters of the fragrant table grapes that surround the patio to accompany their picnic. There are five types, including the dark purple Glenora, which is sweet with a bit of spice, and the delicious golden green Himrod.
The winery recently completed building four professional grade bocce ball courts and another arbor and picnic area. Like everything Maryhill seems to do, they didn’t mess around with mediocrity.
NEW HEAD WINEMAKER
Maryhill’s head winemaker is Richard Batchelor. Originally from New Zealand (infectious accent still intact), Batchelor built his reputation in Napa Valley, and has worked to elevate the quality of the wines while maintaining their attractive price points.
Batchelor also plans to introduce a line of vineyard designates to the burgeoning wine club. Club members have the opportunity to join Batchelor in the vineyard for a thinning and pruning series.
MODEL OF SUCCESS
During a time when some Washington brands were trying to shake “value” from their identification, Maryhill embraced the model. “We’ve always wanted our winery to be a value producer, and I don’t think it could be any more important than it is now,” says Leuthold. “It’s a philosophy we’ve believed in from the inception of Maryhill. Instead of buying one $40 bottle of wine, consumers are now buying two $20 bottles and drinking them at home. I don’t think that’s going to change any time soon because I think people are looking for values.”
TASTING ROOM TOP PICKS:
2008 Winemaker’s Red
Aromas of caramel, a bit of dark berry and cherry and a hint of smoke and lilac. $14/bottle
2008 Viognier
Nose of honeysuckle and jasmine, tasting of green apple and crunchy pear, yet vanilla, honey and the slightest hint of oak are present as well. Light acidity and a hint of sweetness. $15/bottle
2007 Zinfandel
A jammy nose bursting with cane berries and cherries, hints of black pepper, clove and chocolate. A satiny entry to a dry-yet-fruity, medium-to-full body, with creamy vanilla and toasted meringue notes. $22/bottle
2006 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc
Aromas of black cherry, eucalyptus, leather, graphite and slight notes of green olive, licorice and coffee. Tastes of dark berry and cherry fruit along with cold pressed coffee. $34/bottle
Written by Kirsten Telander
VISIT NOW
Maryhill Winery
9774 Hwy 14
Goldendale, WA 98620
877-627-9445
Open daily 10am-6pm