Crafting Cult Cabernet at Trothe Winery

Andrews Family Vineyards launches luxury wine brand Trothe from the Horse Heaven Hills American Viticultural Area

Written by L.M. Archer

THE term ‘Cult Cabernet’ typically conjures up Napa for most consumers. But one winery in Washington State is aiming to change that. Trothe wines from Horse Heaven Hills AVA (American Viticultural Area) consistently trounces iconic Napa, Bordeaux, and Margaret River wines in blind tastings. And they’re just getting started.

Solemn Pledge

Founded in 2018, the winery’s dream team includes fourth-generation winegrower Jeff Andrews of Andrews Family Vineyards, winemaker Raymon McKee (protégé to Rhône legend Philippe Cambie), and respected vineyard manager Todd Chapman. The name ‘Trothe’ derives from an archaic term for “solemn pledge of commitment or loyalty.”

Other team members include Jeff’s father Mike Andrews (founder of Coyote Canyon Winery), brother Macauley, and wife Jani, plus a crew of loyal employees, some dating back to the 1970s.” They’re dedicated to the ground, just like we are,” says Jeff Andrews. “But also to the operation. They share the goals that we have of trying to create these wines.”

Trothe also showcases Horse Heaven Hills, a thoroughbred wine region once considered a blending grape workhorse. “One of the fundamental goals of this project is showing that the Horse Heaven Hills is as good as any wine region in the world,” says the lanky, soft-spoken Andrews.

Grape Heaven

Horse Heaven Hills AVA comprises 17,082 planted acres, about 27% of Washington State’s total vines. Approved as an American Viticultural Area in 2005, the moniker stems from a pioneer, who uttered, “Surely this must be horse heaven!” upon viewing its endless vistas.

Wind and heat define the south-sloping region north of the Columbia River. Less than nine inches of annual rainfall create a semi-desert climate. Strong river winds mitigate mildew, fungal bunch rot and humidity in summer. Well-draining, wind-blown sandy loam and loess soils, Missoula Flood sediment, and basalt bedrock force vines to dig deep, adding further complexity. “Horse Heaven Hills is a consistent growing region that produces ripe but fresh wines with great tannic structure, and a hint of dust,” says James Mantone, proprietor/winemaker at Syncline Winery in Lyle, Wash.

Quality Draw

Ironically, unlike well-known wine regions such as Red Mountain and Walla Walla, remote Horse Heaven Hills remains under the wine tourist radar. “Paterson is the only town in the AVA,” says Paul Champoux of famed Champoux Vineyard, the appellation’s oldest vineyard. “So the wines had to make people turn their heads. Quality is the draw—Horse Heaven Hills supplies the terroir.”

This quality consistently attracts award-winning winemakers, most notably Quilceda Creek Vintners. The winery boasts a whopping 17 wines with 100%-point scores, including six with Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon fruit.

Moreover, winemakers appreciate the region’s innovative approach. “The growers in Horse Heaven Hills have been open to planting new varieties in more locations,” says Mantone, who sources Mourvèdre from Andrews Family Vineyards. “In addition, many growers have been receptive to trying different canopy management strategies, shaping of individual clusters through cluster pruning, as well as planting on higher elevations, rockier sites, or on alternative exposures.”

Rugged Site

Trothe embraces a ‘micro-cru’ approach each vintage. The winery hand-picks fruit from specially designated ‘Trothe’ blocks and rows within the 1,300-acre Andrews Family Vineyards. As of 2022, a bit less than half of one percent of the grapes go to Trothe; the family sells 98.5% of the remaining fruit to buyers. Currently, Trothe focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon, with other single-vineyard, allocation-only wines on the horizon.

Soils include basalt bedrock, loess, and clay, plus some mid-site silt, and an unusual deposit of calcium-covered, rolled river rock. Elevations range from 1,150 to 1,400 feet.

“Part of our terroir is definitely higher canyons, it’s all around us,” says McKee. “We sit on a very high ridge that runs through here. And then we leave huge swaths of our property unplanted—all the canyons, and well up the canyon sides, so that we have good drainage.”

The wild terrain encourages biodiversity, from native grasses, predator and pest habitats, to wild deer corridors. Additionally, the rugged tracts channel blasting winds, thereby mitigating frost damage.

“Andrews Family Vineyards’ rugged landscape along with exposure to elements—particularly the turbulent wind flow throughout the season—creates a very unique skin tannin in the berries which result in wines with intense, dark tannins and an elegant textural profile that is unmistakably Horse Heaven Hills,” adds Chapman. “It’s more elegant and refined skin tannin, just from being in a rugged site.”

High-Touch, Hi-Tech

After Andrews’ grandfather drilled a well on the property in 1956, the hardscrabble landscape turned lush. Today, water remains a precious commodity. To that end, Trothe employs a sophisticated high-tech system to remotely monitor moisture and heat levels, thereby fine-tuning irrigation outputs. Other precision farming techniques include mechanical shoot removal, and mechanical leafers.

“All the credit is due on the farm side,” says McKee. “That’s what Todd does, and all this water stuff we look up—that’s one of our number one most important things to pay attention to in our farming, because that helps us to grow our grapes, and get acid and sugar ripeness and phenolic ripeness, all at the ideal moment.”

McKee’s approach in the cellar mirrors this mindfulness. Trothe’s wine production facility in the Horse Heaven Hills has been thoughtfully outfitted with state-of-the-art equipment, from a top-notch optical sorter, to bespoke Italian concrete aging vessels, and carefully curated French cooperage.

Something Special

Ultimately, Trothe reflects not just the spirit of Horse Heaven Hills, but the soul of the Andrews family. “We want wine lovers to know that if you’re not drinking wines that come from Horse Heaven Hills, you probably are missing out on something special and world class,” says Andrews.

Beginning with the 2023 harvest, he says they will offer custom crush opportunities. “Our family’s investment in this sophisticated winery is also an investment in the future of winemaking in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA and in the greater State of Washington,” says Jeff Andrews. “We’re excited to open our doors to vintners who share our vision for crafting luxury wines that are emblematic of their Washington roots.”