The future is bright for Washington State’s 13th AVA, already a significant grape growing region for Pacific Northwest winemakers
If the making of wine is an exercise in delayed gratification, the creation of an American Viticultural Area (AVA) is doubly so. Few understand this better than Cameron Fries, the champion of Washington’s 13th and newest AVA, the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley. While the process of getting this AVA approved didn’t take nearly as long as its geological formation, it still seemed like eons for all concerned. “Seven or eight years, at least,” sighs Fries.
Fries, a tall man with a fittingly deep voice, is the owner and winemaker at White Heron Cellars, the region’s oldest continuously operating winery. Though a native Washingtonian, his enological training came from Switzerland. “Grapes need a good view,” his European mentors told him. His grapes, perched on a rocky hillside in the northwest corner of the AVA, enjoy a spectacular panorama of the Columbia River.
Petitioning for an AVA is not a one person project. Fries found help from Rusty Figgins and Freddy Arredondo, the former and current winemakers, respectively, at Cave B, which is home to the area’s oldest grapes. However, their petition did not attain approvable form until they enlisted the help of soil scientist Joan Davenport, who had recently helped with the petition for the Snipes Mountain AVA.
The Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA encompasses Quincy Basin, which is one of the driest areas in Washington, favored with only seven inches of rainfall per year. But 17 million years ago, it was flat and wet, and a poor site for growing grapes.
RECIPE FOR AN AVA
For the next ten million years, enormous lava flows sporadically burst from fissures near Walla Walla, covering much of the state. In between flows, wind and water deposited sediment, making a rocky layer cake. Thrust faults created the Beezley and Frenchman Hills that form the AVA’s northern and southern boundaries, as well as the two ridges that parallel the Columbia River to the west.
The basin was born with a slight tilt to the east, whence rushed cataclysmic ice age floods. The basin embraced the frigid waters with igneous arms, but couldn’t quite hold them. Water shot over three saddles on the western ridge line, draining into the river. These waterfalls ate their bases away, and they moved east, forming the coulees that now indent those ridges. Within these coulees, the plunge pools abandoned by the retreating falls became the “Ancient Lakes” for which the AVA is named.
BAKE AT MEDIUM HEAT
Most of the 1,700 acres of grapes in the AVA have been treated to good views. Many of the grapes drink water from the Quincy-Columbia Irrigation District, but a few, including Fries’, rely on well water. So far, no grapes are grown on the Frenchman Hills, since water is scarce, and their northern aspect makes them a bit colder.
The AVA is on the cooler side, and is best known for whites. “It’s a new frontier for whites,” believes Greg Jones, viticulturist for Jones of Washington.
Ryan Flanagan manages Milbrandt’s vineyards in the AVA, as well as his family’s Ryan Patrick vineyards there. He notes that the dryness also contributes to top-notch grapes. “Two years ago was a difficult mildew year, and last year was a bad botrytis year in other areas.” Ancient Lakes was in relatively good shape. “I think some of it has to do with it being drier at critical times. We’re growing some reds along the benches,” continues Flanagan, “where it stays a little bit warmer. We’re growing Syrah, Malbec, even Merlot fairly well there.”
Indeed, the oldest vines in the region nestle just above Babcock Bench, at Vince Bryan’s Cave B Estate Winery and Inn. Bryan planted the first grapes in 1980, and a few years later, opened the Champs de Brionne winery. Fries made the wine for several years. The tasting party for the inaugural vintage grew too big for its planned venue, so they moved it to a bowl shaped area at the north end of their property. When the Bryans took a break and sold the winery, they sold that part of the property, too. Now it’s the Gorge Amphitheater which hosts major artists in concert, as well as a few Pinot Noir vines.
The Bryans kept their vineyard, and eventually the wine bug bit them again, and they launched Cave B Winery.
“Champs de Brionne was definitely more of a production winery, whereas Cave B is geared towards small lots, and open-bin fermentation,” says Freddy Arredondo. He likes the structure the grapes impart to his wines. “The grapes are similar to Red Mountain’s, as far as tannin content, but there’s higher acid. The other great thing is they have amazing color extraction.”
SERVE
In the mid-90s, Ryan Flanagan’s father, Terry, began growing grapes in the Ancient Lakes area in the course of establishing the Ryan Patrick Winery. At the same time, Butch and Jerry Milbrandt, who had been farming the Quincy area for several decades, decided to branch into grape growing. Meanwhile, Chateau Ste. Michelle began to execute a major expansion and, recognizing the potential of the area, sought growers there. The Milbrandts responded, and now farm more grapes here than all other growers combined. Their oldest and largest vineyard is Evergreen, which is a source for a large part of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s highly regarded Eroica Riesling. Smaller producers also buy white grapes from Evergreen, including L’Ecole N° 41, Seven Hills, Tempus, Efeste, and others.
A little later, Jones of Washington began planting at the base of Beezley Hills. Like Milbrandt, they produce their own wine from the AVA, as well as sell grapes. Both take advantage of the cool climate to grow Pinot Noir, which is sold to sparkling producer Domaine Ste. Michelle.
It’s no surprise to Victor Palencia, Jones of Washington’s winemaker, that buyers appreciate the AVA’s signature qualities. “The acids that we get up there with the caliche soil are different. I think they have some depth, some weight, and more dimension to them. Regardless of the variety, there is always this backbone of minerality, and they’re really aromatic.”
The AVA’s newest and smallest producer is Beaumont Cellars. Until recently, Pete Beaumont sourced all of his grapes from the neighboring Wahluke Slope. But he recently began buying fruit from Fries and Jones. For several years, he’s nurtured a few acres of grapes on his land, and plans to plant more near Jones’ Two Gun Vineyard.
ENJOY
The wares of White Heron, Cave B, Jones, and Beaumont can be sampled in the tasting rooms strung along the western ridges.
Other diversions, from relaxing to adrenaline inducing, await you. Take in the Sasquatch Festival at the Gorge Amphitheater. Try birding at Quincy Lakes. Explore the area’s geology with a hike in Ancient Lakes Coulee. Or scale the basalt at Frenchman Coulee, home to hundreds of rock climbing routes that range from casual to hard. Then unwind with a massage at Cave B’s world class spa.
Whatever adventure you’re yearning for, there’s no need to delay your gratification.
Written by Tuck Russell
QUICK FACTS ABOUT THE AVA
Officially, the 13th AVA in Washington State and a sub-appellation of Columbia Valley AVA
WHEN: Effective Nov. 19, 2012
WHERE: Central Washington counties of Douglas, Grant and Kittitas
SIZE: 162,762 total acres
PLANTINGS: 1,700 acres (as of Spring 2013)
GRAPE VARIETALS: (Whites) Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Muscat, Petite Arvine*, Armigne* (Reds) Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Barbera, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Humagne Rouge*
*These Swiss varietals were planted by White Heron Cellars and are likely the only varietals found in the United States