Swiftwater Cellars is a wonder of architectural grandeur that pays tribute to history through its wines and design
Can you spot the woman in the picture?” asked Don Watts, owner of Swiftwater Cellars. He was pointing to a large black-and-white photo of three miners taken at the old Roslyn No. 9 Mine in the 1930s. Back then, women weren’t allowed to work in the mine; it was a man’s domain. Shaking my head, I replied that I couldn’t tell which one was the woman. They all looked like men to me. “That one, the one in the middle,” Don said with his friendly smile. He went on to explain that one evening, this cross-dressing miner had one too many beers at a local tavern and was spotted using the ladies room. She lost her job as a result. Bummer. With those broad shoulders and solid build, she must have been one heck of a coal miner.
Swiftwater Cellars opened its doors in September 2010 where it resides on the former site of the No. 9 Coal Mine. Undoubtedly, the winery is one of the most stunning architectural wonders at what is already a travel destination within the Suncadia Resort, located in Cle Elum. As Don gave me a tour of the facilities, I couldn’t help but marvel at his passion for the land, its heritage and, above all, his new winery.
At age 55, Don Watts still possesses the energy and terrier-like inquisitiveness to master whatever business venture he sets his mind to. “It’s really just attention to detail,” he confided. But I realize it’s more than that; there’s a certain laser-like quality to his vision.
It seems that Don has worked all his life. In Prosser, WA where he grew up as the son of an auto mechanic, there were always jobs to be had. It’s a farming community, and kids work the crops. After “barely getting through high school,” Don proposed to then-17-year-old Lori, his high school sweetheart, and to his great joy, she accepted. They’ve been a partnership ever since, raising kids, growing businesses and cutting their teeth in the wine industry through their ownership of Zephyr Ridge Vineyard, located in the Horse Heaven Hills.
In 2007, Don decided to sell his food-processing business to ConAgra whereupon he and Lori headed off to Europe. They relished their time there, but after three months, Don announced to Lori that he needed to get a job. The “R” word (retirement) simply isn’t in his vocabulary; he was ready for a new challenge. It was then that the notion of creating a new winery began to percolate, and with the capital amassed from the sale of his business, he put his plan into motion.
ON THE CASCADE SLOPES
Often, successful business people follow the beat of a different drummer, and indeed, Don steps to a rare rhythm. When everybody advised him that he needed to locate his destination winery in Woodinville or Walla Walla, he decided otherwise. After all, those places already attract wine tourists, and a new destination was needed—some location in-between those areas, where travelers and locals alike could find respite and a fine glass of wine.
Don located his winery in the Cascade Mountains a little more than an hour’s drive from Seattle on Interstate 90. If my visit was any indication, Don chose wisely. Swiftwater Cellars was packed with visitors from all over the state—Ellensburg, Spokane and Seattle—including a group of local Suncadia Resort residents that consider the winery a favorite watering hole. Swiftwater Cellars’ vision as Washington’s ultimate destination-within-a-destination has guided everything about the design of this winery, including its homage to the past, from the distressed timber beams mirroring the No. 9 mine shaft to the pickaxe door handles on the doors of the grand entrance. The “wow” factor greets you as you cross the winery’s threshold. Your eyes soak in the grandeur of the high-beamed ceiling with 20-foot floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto the sand traps and verdant green fairways of the newly completed 18-hole Rope Rider Golf Course.
BOUTIQUE & EVENTS
Following Don from the main foyer and Fireside Lounge, we walked through the Boutique at Swiftwater Cellars. When I remarked that someone has a good eye for merchandise, Don responded that it was a collaborative effort between his wife, Lori Watts and family friend, Deborah Hunt. The tour continued to a large, open space situated at the end of the complex. He noted this will be the golf pro shop and yet another good reason to come to Swiftwater.
We took a staircase down to a cavernous production area and barrel room. Don explained that this space hosts corporate events and wedding receptions of which I could easily imagine a couple of hundred attendees in a beautifully lit space, complete with the aromas of eau du Cabernet emanating from the neatly stacked French oak barrels in the background.
Off to the side was a separate room called the Black Diamond Room, offering intimate space for as many as 22 people, perfect for family or corporate retreats. With wrought-iron fixtures, custom cabinetry, and a king’s table lit by candelabra, this room is a centerpiece for the good things in life.
A DUO OF WINEMAKERS
From there we entered a laboratory area, where I met Swiftwater Cellars’ on-site winemaker, Linda Trotta. Linda is a recent transplant from California, where she was the winemaker for Sonoma’s renowned Gundlach Bundschu winery. I later learned that wine writer Dan Berger named Linda Trotta as one of California’s 10 best wine makers. With an accolade like that, she could have worked anywhere, but she chose Swiftwater Cellars, in large part because it sources grapes from distinguished vineyards in Washington and Oregon.
While I struggled to recall obscure facts from my viticulture 101 class, Linda and I chatted about the differences between Washington grapes and those grown in California. However, I was most interested in learning how Linda works with Swiftwater Cellars’ second winemaker, Tony Rynders.
Like Linda, Tony also graduated from the famed enology program at UC Davis. But his winemaking career includes a long stint at Oregon’s Domaine Serene, where he crafted Pinot Noir and developed a deep love for this noble wine. Linda noted that she and Tony continually collaborate, from crush to blending, and, fortunately for us, the two have similar flavor profile styles.
WINE TASTING & DINING
By now, thoroughly salivating with all this wine talk, I was pleased that our next stop on the tour was the tasting room. As my eyes took in the spacious area, I ascertained that it’s more of a wine bar than a traditional tasting room, with its plush furniture, a small-plate menu, a flat-screen television and an attentive, well-trained staff.
A modest $9 tasting fee entitles you to a wine flight featuring Swiftwater’s luscious lineup of wines, beginning with a refreshingly crisp Semillon and moving on to an amazing Oregon-sourced Pinot Noir.
Next up was a beguiling Syrah that showed wonderful fruit character. However, the pièce de résistance was a delicious Cabernet-based blend named Proprietary Red—complex, layered, with a great finish packed with dark fruit, cedar and vanilla notes.
Don must have noticed me drooling as I observed a passing server carrying a plate of sliders—pork or beef I wasn’t sure. He suggested that we move our interview to the Hoist House Restaurant for dinner.
As we entered the restaurant, I stopped in my tracks to drink in the view. This is a sizable space (nothing is petite here) drenched in Northwest decor, an open kitchen, full-service bar, and an expansive wall with floor-to-ceiling windows. Diners take in the view of the surrounding outdoors, which includes a large man-made hill called Tipple Hill, composed of slag from the coal mine.
The Hoist House menu features fresh Northwest ingredients from local purveyors, embodying the slow-food movement, from farm to table.
Now seated, I made the best decision of the day, choosing the Double R Ranch grilled beef tenderloin to accompany my glass of Proprietary Red.
While savoring this delicious meal, I noticed Don greeting some of the regulars by name, then watched as he picked up a paper napkin that had fallen from the bar and motioned to one of the servers that a guest needed a menu. Attention to detail, I thought. This is his baby, his pride and joy.
CREATING A LASTING LEGACY
Don joined me at the table, and I asked him about his micromanagement style and the possibility of his letting it go. It seems to me that Swiftwater Cellars already exudes Northwest elegance, and he’s assembled a seemingly committed staff with equally high standards.
He responded, “In the first few years of the operation, I will be a dictator. But my goal, longer term, is to create a democracy where I can let go and leave a legacy for my family.”
Personally, I don’t see it—the “letting go” part, that is. As long as we have a destination place like Swiftwater Cellars, where we can relax and taste amazing wines, I hope Don remains a benevolent dictator.
Written by Steve Roberts
TASTE
Swiftwater Cellars
301 Rope Rider Dr, Cle Elum
(509) 674-6555
www.swiftwatercellars.com